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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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y 6 enclosing some large tabular bergs one of which had overturned recently. There<br />

was plenty of brash <strong>and</strong> sludge in Borge Bay. Temperatures remained rather lower<br />

than in recent days, though not really cold.<br />

Three days later there was a sudden drop in temperature to -21.7°C during the<br />

night. In the morning it was -19.5°C, rising during the day to -17.8°C; the change was<br />

felt by all of us. Next day it was even colder; it was blizzarding <strong>and</strong> felt very cold, the<br />

temperature down to -24°C. By the 11 o’clock Ob it had risen to -18.4°C when Derek<br />

<strong>and</strong> I went up to the top of Observation Bluff to see how the pack looked. The sea<br />

was frozen <strong>and</strong> there were numbers of large bergs concentrated along the south<br />

coasts of Signy <strong>and</strong> Coronation; the edge of the pack was about eight miles<br />

southwest <strong>and</strong> not easily distinguishable. Prominent ice-blink was visible to the<br />

south, so the pack was probably fairly extensive. We had to cut steps down as the<br />

surface was very glazed <strong>and</strong> slippery.<br />

Another few days <strong>and</strong> the temperature was -27.2°C, falling during the day to -<br />

29°C , the pack unbroken to the horizon. The sea was still re-freezing <strong>and</strong> while<br />

crossing Starfish Bay on the ice it began to groan <strong>and</strong> sag. The surface was sticky <strong>and</strong><br />

ice-axes went through in patches, so we got off it as soon as possible! 8 July was a<br />

clear, crisp, sparkling morning, with the temperature at -25°C <strong>and</strong> powder snow<br />

everywhere. I saw Derek on top of the crags <strong>and</strong> went up to join him. The pack was<br />

unbroken to the horizon. Later the temperature rose a few degrees <strong>and</strong> next day it<br />

was up to -18.6°C <strong>and</strong> continued rising during the day to -9°C. The sea was now<br />

quite frozen over, except for an east-west lead just off the Robertson Isl<strong>and</strong>s. Pack fog<br />

was forming over it, in a black cloud creeping in from the south. There were two<br />

other leads each a few hundred yards long, just off Gourlay Point, aligned towards<br />

the Divide, but it wasn't possible to distinguish the pack from the fast ice as the latter<br />

was hummocked too.<br />

The temperature next morning was -5°C; it was gloriously fine, falling during the<br />

day to -13°C, <strong>and</strong> on 11 July it was fine again, the temperature down to -27.8°C,<br />

falling further during the day to -32°C.. Derek <strong>and</strong> I went up to Observation Bluff in<br />

fresh, floury, powder-snow <strong>and</strong> some deep drifts. The sun was low <strong>and</strong> casting<br />

beautiful shadows, the sunlit snow sparkling in myriads of tiny points <strong>and</strong> the air<br />

was full of diamonds. The spell of low temperatures <strong>and</strong> fine weather continued,<br />

including a minimum overnight temperature of -33.4°C, our lowest yet. There was no<br />

change in the ice situation; the bay ice was about 6 in to 1 ft thick.<br />

Then in mid- July the temperature had begun to rise again, to -20.2°C in the<br />

morning, having been -29°C at minimum the previous night. It rose during the day to<br />

-13°C. The bay ice averaged 9 inches in thickness now, but in places it was over a foot<br />

thick. I got about halfway through my task before it became too much <strong>and</strong> I could see<br />

neither end of the line. So I turned back, <strong>and</strong> following a perfect curve, was heading<br />

for Bare Rock <strong>and</strong> about to take a compass bearing, when the blizzard cleared a little<br />

<strong>and</strong> I saw Berntsen Point. I changed direction <strong>and</strong> met Ralph on the way back; he<br />

was coming out to look for me <strong>and</strong> helped pull the sounding sledge, which was now<br />

heavily coated with ice. We had quite a struggle to get it up the hill. The temperature<br />

next morning was about -18°C, but fell two degrees during the day. The bay ice was<br />

about 1 ft thick now; was it thinner over deeper water?<br />

Two days later the temperature was well down again; -27°C that morning <strong>and</strong><br />

falling 2 degrees during the day. Next morning it was -24°C <strong>and</strong> rose 2 degrees,<br />

182

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