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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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The Brothers rocks) silhouetted against it. The whole of the area west of<br />

Possession Bay was much less heavily glaciated than the south-east <strong>and</strong> what<br />

glaciers there were seemed to be regressing rapidly. The snow surface around the<br />

nunataks too seemed to be receding fast (as shown by the absence of colonizing<br />

lichens on the rocks) <strong>and</strong> large moraines showed up black at the edges of glaciers.<br />

There were many cape-pigeons, Wilson's storm petrels, albatrosses – w<strong>and</strong>ering,<br />

light-mantled sooty, black-browed <strong>and</strong> grey-headed. The latter I saw for the first<br />

time at close quarters when one remained paddling in the water as we passed; it<br />

was a beautiful bird.<br />

After a glimpse of the little haven of Elsehul, we rounded Cape Alex<strong>and</strong>ra <strong>and</strong><br />

pursued an erratic course, dictated by the many rocks, visible <strong>and</strong> invisible, down<br />

La Roche Strait (Bird Sound on the British Admiralty charts) separating Bird<br />

Isl<strong>and</strong> from the mainl<strong>and</strong>. This was typical of the adventurous seamanship shown<br />

by the sealers, but also based on extensive knowledge. On its eastern shores Bird<br />

Isl<strong>and</strong> is quite precipitous, [with a number of macaroni penguin rookeries, <strong>and</strong> the<br />

other side of the strait was very steep <strong>and</strong> rugged too. As we left the shelter of the<br />

isl<strong>and</strong>, we caught the bad weather from the west – the fetch largely unbroken<br />

from Patagonia, over – <strong>and</strong> began to pitch about. I chatted with the Gunner, Arne<br />

Bogen; he was a very jolly Norwegian, always laughing <strong>and</strong> joking, <strong>and</strong> obviously<br />

very tough. We passed inside Three Point Isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> round Cape Paryadin into<br />

Undine Harbour.<br />

Sealing methods had changed greatly since the early days, but because of the<br />

difficult nature of the coastline <strong>and</strong> the necessity of working close inshore small,<br />

easily maneuverable, vessels are still required. In l951 Pesca had four sealing<br />

vessels, all of them obsolete whale-catchers. These were the Lille Carl, built at Oslo,<br />

1884, 83 ft long; Dias, Beverley, 1910, 108 ft; Albatros, Svelvik, 1921, 107 ft; Don<br />

Samuel, Oslo, 1925, 111 ft. The following account of sealing at South Georgia the<br />

l940’s <strong>and</strong> 50’s is based upon [three] trips I made in 1951 on board the Albatros, Ole<br />

Hauge, master. There were small differences in sealing techniques <strong>and</strong> in the<br />

composition of the crew in the other vessels. The Albatros was a steel-built, oilburning<br />

vessel retaining traces of her former occupation as a whale catcher, such<br />

as the gun pillar in the bows. She was 107 ft long, 210 grt, 112 net, with steam<br />

engines. The crew, excluding the captain, numbered about sixteen <strong>and</strong> comprised<br />

an engineer, two firemen, one motorboat man (who occasionally helped in the<br />

engine room). A mate (who was also gunner ashore), two seamen (one of whom<br />

was in charge of the pram dinghy), a cook, a mess boy <strong>and</strong> seven sealers. The<br />

captain, mate, engineer, motorboat man <strong>and</strong> cook lived aft, the crew's quarters<br />

were forward of the hold. Men of five or six different nationalities might work in<br />

the Albatros, <strong>and</strong> the language in general use was a mixture of Spanish <strong>and</strong><br />

Norwegian, although most of the sealers were expatriated Poles. As in the<br />

whaling industry, a system of quota <strong>and</strong> bonus prevailed. The seal ‘quota’ on<br />

which the bonus was based, was arrived at by taking the average number of<br />

barrels of oil produced in the previous three y<strong>ears</strong>, <strong>and</strong> a bonus was paid for each<br />

barrel obtained. If the set quota was exceeded, an increased bonus was paid. In<br />

December, January <strong>and</strong> February the sealers worked at the whaling station at<br />

Grytviken <strong>and</strong> at other times when they weren’t sealing. The majority spent the<br />

winter in Argentina, <strong>and</strong> returned to South Georgia each spring.<br />

358

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