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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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where we still hoped to l<strong>and</strong>, weather permitting. The tide-race in Smylie<br />

Channel was very strongly against us <strong>and</strong> as it was relatively calm, formed into<br />

hundreds of small whirlpools about 6-10 feet across, with water bubbling up<br />

elsewhere. It was a most impressive experience <strong>and</strong> at times the Protector was<br />

almost st<strong>and</strong>ing still, even with her engines racing. However, we got through,<br />

passed Tea Isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Staaten Isl<strong>and</strong>, inside Sea Dog Isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> then rolled<br />

around Rodney Bluff, where there was also a strong tide. At Bird Isl<strong>and</strong> the<br />

swell was again too high for a l<strong>and</strong>ing; we rounded Cape Meredith in the halflight<br />

of a very fine sunset <strong>and</strong> so on through the channel between Clump <strong>and</strong><br />

Tussac Isl<strong>and</strong>s. There we narrowly missed a reef; then with Natural Arch dead<br />

astern we entered Albemarle <strong>and</strong> dropped anchor at 9 o’clock off the factory.<br />

Next morning we left at 8 o’clock to l<strong>and</strong> sheep at Jack's Isl<strong>and</strong> where we<br />

dropped anchor an hour <strong>and</strong> a half later. The sheep were ferried ashore in<br />

three boats, tussock was cut for the horses <strong>and</strong>, taking the large boat in tow, we<br />

returned to the station. I did some typing before lunch <strong>and</strong> at 1 o’clock Johnny<br />

<strong>and</strong> I went ashore with my .22 rifle to get some geese for the pot. We walked<br />

over to the penguin rookery, but the sheep startled the geese <strong>and</strong> we had to go<br />

over to the freshwater pond near the shore. Here we shot ten - five geese <strong>and</strong><br />

five g<strong>and</strong>ers. Johnny showed me how to attract them, by lying down <strong>and</strong><br />

raising a leg in the air - for the upl<strong>and</strong> geese are very curious <strong>and</strong> come to<br />

investigate. We plucked the five geese <strong>and</strong> gutted them, took the wings of all<br />

(for they attracted a bounty) <strong>and</strong> walked back to the station, well laden. There<br />

was a number of teal, rather small for a .22 rifle, <strong>and</strong> some widgeon, grey duck,<br />

<strong>and</strong> logger duck at the pond. A party was held ashore, which I did not attend,<br />

to celebrate Jack's daughter's wedding <strong>and</strong> Ken's promotion. The beer must<br />

have been strong, for the boys came back aboard in a very drunken state; two<br />

fell out of the pram into the water, providing some amusement, but of course<br />

this is potentially very dangerous.<br />

On 25 February we left Albermarle at 6 o’clock <strong>and</strong> headed for Beauchêne<br />

Isl<strong>and</strong> (called ‘the boosheens’ by the boys) – a reputed fur seal stronghold. A<br />

heavy swell made the Protector roll badly <strong>and</strong> breakfast was quite an<br />

adventure. At 9 o’clock we changed course for Sea Lion Isl<strong>and</strong>s, because the<br />

sea was worsening <strong>and</strong> in any case a southerly swell is hopeless for a l<strong>and</strong>ing<br />

on Beauchêne. We dropped anchor at Sea Lion Isl<strong>and</strong> around noon intending<br />

to wait a few hours for any sign of moderation in the sea. We were to take 150<br />

sheep back to the station, but they would not have stood the trip in that sea. I<br />

went ashore to the l<strong>and</strong>ing place - a natural flat jetty of natural rock on one side<br />

of a narrow inlet, with fourteen feet of water alongside. Above, in the tussac,<br />

were two sheds <strong>and</strong> a sheep-pen, <strong>and</strong> sheep <strong>and</strong> stores could be raised or<br />

lowered by means of a thirty foot wooden chute, with a retractable lower end<br />

like a drawbridge. The sheep in the pen had to be hobbled with rope, manh<strong>and</strong>led<br />

to the chute <strong>and</strong> thrust down it to slide to the rock ledge below. Then<br />

they were loaded onto the pram dinghy, an oarsman sat on top of them <strong>and</strong><br />

rowed out to the ship. Arrived at the ship, the sheep were hoisted aboard by<br />

means of a noose around their necks. They seemed none the worse for the<br />

brutal experience <strong>and</strong>, once on the deck quickly huddled together again.<br />

Unfortunately, on the journey out to the ship, some sheep inevitably managed<br />

339

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