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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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following the coast. In my inexperience I found it difficult to distinguish the sexes<br />

other than the large bulls. We did a count of seals on a stretch of coast. Then Ralph<br />

went back to the boat to take Derek home for the Ob.<br />

I ate my lunch <strong>and</strong> then worked the rest of the Borge Bay coastline, covering<br />

every yard of it. It was evident that it would be possible in future counts to omit<br />

quite large stretches of coast with no places for seals to haul out. Snow petrels <strong>and</strong><br />

Cape pigeons were very numerous flying near the cliffs, calling harshly, <strong>and</strong> every<br />

suitable crack or ledge held their nests. Many had two birds present <strong>and</strong> I watched<br />

several l<strong>and</strong>ing at the nests. Quite a few birds flew down <strong>and</strong> l<strong>and</strong>ed amongst the<br />

brash; they paddled about <strong>and</strong> drank the seawater, then flew off again.<br />

On the Thule isl<strong>and</strong>s southwest of Balin Point, numerous empty limpet shells<br />

seemed to indicate a Dominican gull colony; these birds were very numerous, about<br />

70% being immature. I walked on around the coast to the west of Stygian Cove, but<br />

soon the coast became too steep to provide suitable haul-out places for seals. So I<br />

ended the count just north of the stream from the smallest freshwater lake - later<br />

known as Sombre Lake (because overshadowed by high cliffs). All the freshwater<br />

lakes were frozen <strong>and</strong> bore my weight. On the largest was a single elephant <strong>and</strong><br />

broken ice indicated that more had been there. I could find no trace of crustaceans<br />

although I cut through the ice in several places with my ice-axe. As I walked back to<br />

the beach where I was to meet the others the sun was shining through rifts in the<br />

clouds, lighting up the isl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> parts of Coronation with a golden radiance,<br />

which was enhanced by a deep purple sky. I whistled <strong>and</strong> the others came over the<br />

hillside. While Derek went up to Stygian Cove for more rock specimens Ralph <strong>and</strong> I<br />

rowed around to Waterpipe Beach to continue the seal count. Porpoising penguins<br />

accompanied us <strong>and</strong> snow petrels, Cape pigeons <strong>and</strong> giant petrels flew around with<br />

an occasional Wilson's petrel.<br />

It was getting dark <strong>and</strong> we finished the census about 6.15 pm, as it was getting<br />

too dark to see the seals. The total was 1,079 for the area north of Orwell Glacier <strong>and</strong><br />

as far as the west shore of Stygian Cove. I thought this count was probably fairly<br />

accurate but seals in the sea are difficult to see. It appeared that about 90% of the<br />

seals present were males <strong>and</strong> of these 441 or roughly 40% were large harem bulls.<br />

There appeared to be few, if any, males <strong>and</strong> females less than 3 y<strong>ears</strong> old. Derek met<br />

us <strong>and</strong> we rowed back as up to 5,000 shags flew across the bay <strong>and</strong> circled around<br />

Outer Islet before settling there.<br />

A few days later, after lunch, I completed the seal census for Borge Bay. This<br />

time I walked over to the foot of the Orwell Glacier, but was only able to get about<br />

half way along below the ice-cliffs before the pebble beach ended. The water near the<br />

ice-foot was quite deep, the beach shelving steeply. From my position there I was<br />

able to look along a deep crevasse <strong>and</strong> for sheer beauty it took a lot of beating. The<br />

walls had numerous glinting convex facets, like chipped glass or flint, each of which<br />

caught the light in a different way. Making my way along the shore I recorded some<br />

interesting observations on elephants <strong>and</strong> made my count. There were 72 large bulls,<br />

<strong>and</strong> 123 others of which only 9 were females. Numbers had fallen off in Elephant<br />

Flats, but on Drying Point they were about the same as when we arrived on the<br />

isl<strong>and</strong>. Other beaches showed if anything an increase.<br />

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