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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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As the trawlers lay all night gutting fish, fog descended <strong>and</strong> in the morning it<br />

was rough. We did a trawl haul <strong>and</strong> a bottom temperature <strong>and</strong> then ‘dodged’ a<br />

bit. At 4 pm it was still blowing a gale <strong>and</strong> we came 160 miles south overnight.<br />

In the morning it was still blowing <strong>and</strong> worsened during the day, but by 8.30 pm<br />

it seemed to be easing off again. Several were seasick; I spent some time on the<br />

bridge, watching the green ones come over the bows <strong>and</strong> rush with a roar at the<br />

superstructure.<br />

It was calmer again a few days later <strong>and</strong> we did a line of stations to Cape<br />

Farewell, then up the East coast doing some bottom temperatures <strong>and</strong> occasional<br />

trawling <strong>and</strong> Agassiz trawling. By 16 September we were up near Cape Bille <strong>and</strong><br />

I did another sketch of the coast as the ship steamed northwards, taking<br />

soundings at 1 nautical mile intervals. In the evening we did our last trawl haul<br />

<strong>and</strong> got a net full of ‘soldiers’ <strong>and</strong> four cod. It was dark by then <strong>and</strong> we turned<br />

<strong>and</strong> headed for Reykjavik. I stood on the bridge <strong>and</strong> watched a most impressive<br />

display of the Northern Lights – huge curtains of green rippling in the sky. The<br />

beard competition was held among the crew <strong>and</strong> won by <strong>Scott</strong>ie; Newfy was<br />

runner-up with 14 votes (one behind <strong>Scott</strong>ie).<br />

In Icel<strong>and</strong> waters again <strong>and</strong> back to Cambridge. On 18 September it was just after<br />

midnight there in Icel<strong>and</strong>, a clear starry night with the sky enhanced by the<br />

Northern Lights <strong>and</strong> the mail had just come aboard including a letter from<br />

Maureen. We had been in port for only about an hour, as we had to wait outside<br />

for the pilot. That day we were to leave again, early, <strong>and</strong> there might not be a<br />

chance to get ashore. We were to call at Aberdeen on our way back to sell our fish<br />

catch <strong>and</strong> I hoped to be back in Cambridge by the following Wednesday. It had<br />

been a very enjoyable trip <strong>and</strong> I was glad that I had come, but it would be nice to<br />

get back.<br />

I was now more or less in a position to begin to compare the Arctic <strong>and</strong><br />

Antarctic. Incidentally I received a cable from my friend Arthur Mansfield who<br />

was now at Signy Isl<strong>and</strong>. The sea ice was starting to break up <strong>and</strong> he had fallen<br />

through the ice with his sledge <strong>and</strong> dogs. He was getting on well with the seal<br />

research - on Weddell seals. The rest of our trip went well <strong>and</strong> the fish catch was<br />

sold in Aberdeen; then on to Grimsby where we signed off. I took a very large<br />

Greenl<strong>and</strong> halibut with me back to Cambridge, where I presented it to the High<br />

Table at St Catharine's College <strong>and</strong> settled down to writing up my PhD thesis.<br />

Maureen was still in Cambridge <strong>and</strong> life was good.<br />

Looking to the Future<br />

I was admitted to Degree of Master of Arts (MA), University of Cambridge.<br />

The main reason for taking this degree was that it was awarded (5 y<strong>ears</strong> after<br />

being awarded a first degree) for a small fee. More importantly it meant that, as a<br />

Senior Member of the university, one could now be out at night without having<br />

to wear a gown – a regulation that otherwise applied to undergraduates <strong>and</strong><br />

recent graduates.<br />

In January 1953, Maureen <strong>and</strong> I took a ship to Norway to ski. We stayed at<br />

the Youth Hostel or Ungdomsherberge, in Lillehammer (where Gwen <strong>and</strong><br />

Maureen had stayed in 1951 when they were hitch hiking around Sc<strong>and</strong>inavia).<br />

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