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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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seldom below -12°C. In terms of human susceptibility it is effectively colder if<br />

the wind chill factor is applied. However, we did experience temperatures of -<br />

40°C on a winter journey <strong>and</strong> this was very cold, particularly when a wind was<br />

blowing. An air temperature of -40°C with a wind of only [25 knots] is<br />

equivalent to a wind chill of - 60°C <strong>and</strong> much colder in a gale). On a still sunny<br />

day in summer though, the solar radiation allowed us to go shirtless when<br />

working outdoors in the sun, but it remained cold in the shade. (The solar<br />

maximum temperature was typically 45°C on a fine February day when the<br />

shade air temperature was 2°C). The coldest month is usually July, the warmest<br />

February. The prevailing westerly winds blow from southwest to northwest <strong>and</strong><br />

frequent warm northerly winds are experienced due to föhn effects, as clouds<br />

pour from the north over the mountain barrier of Coronation Isl<strong>and</strong>. Gales occur<br />

on about 60 days a year <strong>and</strong> at times the wind strengths were off the scale of our<br />

anemometer, more than [100 mph]!<br />

In fact the South Orkneys lie in a zone with the highest annual average cloud<br />

cover in the world, also the strongest winds at sea producing the highest waves!<br />

The day to day weather is determined by a succession of depressions travelling<br />

around the Antarctic from West to East, which bring changeable weather as the<br />

fronts pass through with monotonous regularity. They also bring rapidly<br />

changing sea conditions, as we were to find on occasion to our alarm. In winter<br />

when the sea is frozen well north of the isl<strong>and</strong>s the depression tracks tend to<br />

pass further to the north <strong>and</strong> in general, though colder, the winter climate is<br />

preferable.<br />

So we experienced frequent heavy cloud cover <strong>and</strong> lack of sunshine <strong>and</strong><br />

frequent, often heavy, precipitation as snow or rain, which may fall in any<br />

month. In an average year, from the records, there are about 280 days with<br />

snowfall <strong>and</strong> drifting snow occurs on about 120 days! Signy experiences 60-80%<br />

cloud cover in winter <strong>and</strong> 80% in summer; a common weather condition known<br />

to us as ‘mank’ is when the isl<strong>and</strong> is shrouded in low cloud. Conversely ‘dingle<br />

days’ occurred once or twice a week, more often in winter. The average total<br />

annual sunshine is 520 hours (a mere 14% of that theoretically possible!).<br />

The seasonal temperature changes are also influenced by the presence of sea<br />

ice - as pack ice <strong>and</strong> icebergs move up to or away from the isl<strong>and</strong>s - producing<br />

falling <strong>and</strong> rising temperatures. When the sea freezes to form fast ice the<br />

temperature plummets, rising again when the ice breaks up <strong>and</strong> moves away.<br />

Such fluctuations may happen many times during the summer <strong>and</strong> occasionally<br />

during the winter, under the influence of sea swell <strong>and</strong> wind sheer. Over some<br />

forty y<strong>ears</strong> of records the pack was usually sighted first in April/May (83%),<br />

otherwise in June/July (17%). Sea ice thick enough to walk upon has been first<br />

recorded over this period in April (7.5%), May (40%), June (37.5%) <strong>and</strong> July<br />

(15%). The ice has moved out of Factory Cove in June (3%), in August (8%), in<br />

September (26%), October (26%), November 21%) <strong>and</strong> December (l6%). In our<br />

two y<strong>ears</strong> (l948 <strong>and</strong> l949) the pack was first sighted on 4 <strong>and</strong> 5 April; it could<br />

safely be walked on by 7 May <strong>and</strong> 13 April respectively, <strong>and</strong> went out on 29<br />

October <strong>and</strong> 19 November. These were therefore y<strong>ears</strong> with relatively long<br />

periods of fast ice <strong>and</strong> lower than usual air temperatures, as we were to find out.<br />

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