Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

the only real seaman in the crew. He had been drinking and had run amok with
a crowbar all over the ship. The guard on our gangplank had come aboard and
the Estonian had broken his arm with a blow from the iron bar, but then the
guard knocked him out with one blow of his fist (he was said to be the
heavyweight boxing champion of Uruguay). As our Estonian lay in the
scuppers, the guard blew a whistle and a detachment of Maritime Police,
wearing fancy-dress uniforms, led by two officers, one with a large drawn
sword, came on board and dragged him off to gaol. We turned in after deep
and sombre thoughts on the general set-up of the expedition. I would be glad
when we got down south and were on our own, away from events like these.
Jumbo's ankle had earlier been damaged by a fall from the deck cargo.
David laid on a taxi and someone from the British Agency to show us around.
We went up to the British Hospital along tree-shaded streets, with typically
Spanish houses, and much wrought-iron work. Once there, Jumbo's ankle was
X-rayed, after much mañana talk, by a very pleasant Doctor who had spent a
year in London during his training. David had a long session with the Matron
and obtained some medical stores he needed. Back to the ‘John Biscoe’ for drinks
with the Captain before lunch. Then up to the main shopping streets to buy
some Kodachrome film; here Derek had a long argument with the assistant,
which threatened to develop into an international incident, but for the timely
arrival of the Norwegian Agent. We were only able to buy two colour films
each - we couldn't afford more with our currency allowance – and they were to
last us two years! Afterwards we sat in the sun in the Plaza Independencia
taking in the atmosphere. We also had a couple of beers and a shoe-shine;
Derek wearing some very dirty old shoes got his money's worth! Next we
browsed in various bookshops, the best run by a girl from Brussels who spoke
very good English and sold no Spanish books. We made one or two purchases.
I tried to get some zoological books at the Foyles of Montevideo, but was
unsuccessful, except for American editions of Darwin's Origin, and Thoreau's
Walden.
At the Club we had tea and buttered toast and met Peter Swann. After a
few G&Ts we heard that there was a new ration of Pesos, so went back to the
ship to collect. On returning to the Club we found Dudley, a little inebriated,
chipping at the bar in imitation of Eric Platt geologising. We met up with Brian,
and Bill and Phil returned from a purchasing expedition. Brian invited us all
out to dinner, so we all piled into a car, dropped Bill who was late for an
appointment, and Brian, Pat, Phil and the three Ds went to Los Palmos. Here
we had more G&Ts and a colossal meal. We began with chicken and salad, with
a Chablis wine; there followed the most enormous steak I've ever seen - it
completely filled the plate and was one and a half inches thick - with two eggs
and lashings of chips piled high, red wine and cheese and biscuits. We returned
to Brian's house for whisky and sodas - and a succession of shaggy-dog stories.
When we got back to the ship at 2 o’clock and said our goodbyes, Derek
went to bed and David prepared to, while I talked with the Fireman on guard,
with the aid of Number Three's dictionary, feeling all the time about a foot
above the deck. While this was going on the Captain returned with a blond
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