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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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should provide about 4 500 calories a day. (Captain <strong>Scott</strong>'s party man-hauling to the<br />

South Pole were on 4,600 calories a day, for a much longer period).<br />

The weather was windy, but fine, <strong>and</strong> after breakfast we skied across the bay toward<br />

Shattered Ridge, <strong>and</strong> the adjacent glaciers <strong>and</strong> conspicuous tilted strata. To where a<br />

200 ft snow slope near the ice cliffs gave access to Sunshine Glacier below the eastern<br />

end of the ridge. We found this slope very steep <strong>and</strong> of hard ice near the top. I kicked<br />

steps up the first bit <strong>and</strong> then had to cut steps in the ice with my ice-axe, Derek then<br />

came up <strong>and</strong> we decided to leave our skis <strong>and</strong> proceed on foot. We climbed up to the<br />

exposed rocks of Shattered Ridge, Derek collected specimens <strong>and</strong> I set up the planetable,<br />

whereupon squalls <strong>and</strong> snow flurries covered everything <strong>and</strong> I had to stop. We<br />

decided to turn back as it was getting late <strong>and</strong> the weather looked settled bad. But<br />

first we climbed the slopes towards the steeper rock strata <strong>and</strong> were engulfed by a<br />

thick blizzard <strong>and</strong> strong winds buffeted us, so we set off back down the slopes. A<br />

small avalanche swept over me, fortunately just as I had belayed to take in Derek <strong>and</strong><br />

the rope. We then went across to the foot of Shattered Ridge to collect rocks <strong>and</strong> were<br />

back in camp by 4.30 pm.<br />

There were snow petrels on the moraine in Shingle Bay, with pronounced greywhite<br />

vermiculations on their backs. They behaved normally, but I watched one pair<br />

apparently attempting to mate - one hovering in the wind above the back of the other<br />

<strong>and</strong> attempting to l<strong>and</strong>, but frustrated by the strong gusts.<br />

Next morning, 7 September, Derek was on cook; outside there was a strong wind<br />

<strong>and</strong> driving snow, so we thought at first that it was better to stay put. But when the<br />

sun came out <strong>and</strong> the snow stopped we decided to go westwards over the col to<br />

Marshall Bay. We cleaned up the campsite, loaded the sledge <strong>and</strong> so on - <strong>and</strong> left a<br />

note for Ralph, pinned to the depot (pyramid) tent. The scenery was great <strong>and</strong> we<br />

took photographs. The slope up to the col soon steepened <strong>and</strong> we had to use block<strong>and</strong>-tackle<br />

to get the loaded sledge up. Derek fixed the block <strong>and</strong> pulled in the rope,<br />

while I pushed from behind; I had to embed the skis transversely in order to get a<br />

footing as the snow was soft <strong>and</strong> deep. We got over the worst of it by very strenuous<br />

<strong>and</strong> tiring work; then the ice axe we were using to anchor the block snapped in the<br />

middle <strong>and</strong> we had to adopt a different tactic. We took it in turns, one pulling <strong>and</strong><br />

the other pushing, up to the top of the col. Although it was only 500 ft above sea level<br />

it took us three hours in the force-10 wind. We went down again to collect our skis as<br />

the wind increased <strong>and</strong> pitched camp about 5.30 pm just over the top in the lee of<br />

some rocks. It had been a grueling day's work. According to the army manual for the<br />

training of mountain troops, which had just come out, 200 lbs was the maximum load<br />

for three men with an extra man to push behind! As Ralph decided not to come,<br />

Derek <strong>and</strong> I had been pulling 500 lbs up steep slopes. We had supper <strong>and</strong> went to<br />

bed early; there was more order that night although we had camped late.<br />

We had a very bad night, wind force-12 <strong>and</strong> drift snow coming through the<br />

inappropriate mosquito netting ventilators. I had an inch of snow covering my<br />

sleeping bag <strong>and</strong> head that morning. The wind rattled the tent <strong>and</strong> there were<br />

crackings <strong>and</strong> other loud reports; then there would be a lull for a few moments while<br />

one waited in apprehension for the next blast. Surprisingly our flimsy tent stood up<br />

to it, even though the side-guys came loose, perhaps because we had chosen a<br />

relatively sheltered site. I had been awake all night except for a short dream before<br />

205

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