Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

straightforward until we came to the steep slabs at the top, which were so polished
that it was extremely difficult to climb them in my boots. We scrambled around the
crag and I did the first bit of the Innominate Crack, but didn't persevere, and climbed
the Kern Knotts Crack instead. We then moved on to the Napes Needle and put on
rubbers. I went straight up the Wastdale Crack, without the rope - I really enjoyed it.
On the shoulder however we saw that the rock was very smooth and polished and
we were defeated at the Mantleshelf, where, owing to our inexperience we just
couldn’t get further.
Down again after several attempts to climb it and - feeling a bit frustrated - we
went on to the Arrowhead Arête. There are some wonderful situations on it. Also the
sun was sinking and the clouds were turning a pale pink, giving a splendid view.
From the top of the Arrowhead we scrambled up to Mallory's Climb, which was
good fun and started up a ridge onto a wonderfully airy face - or so it seemed to me
then. We next climbed two cracks up to the Westmorland Cairn and on to the top of
Gable. Then we hurried down in the gathering dusk, making an enjoyable scree run
down Little Hell's Gate to recover our rucksack. Back to Sprinkling Tarn in the dusk,
where we pitched the tent and got into our sleeping bags. We had sardines and
bread, with some squashed tomatoes, for supper and so to sleep.
After a good night and breakfast of bread, marmalade and cheese we headed for
Great End and climbed the South-east Gully. It was a good start for the day and I led,
with wonderful views, looking out. It was very wet and slimy in parts and there
were lots of blueberries to eat on the way. There was an easy cave pitch, which I
liked. This climb was one of the longest gully climbs in Britain. From the cairn at the
top of Great End we struck across the tops to Scafell Pike where we had a short rest.
There was not much to see as the mist was all around us, so we walked on to
Mickledore and reached the path at about 11.30 am. We lunched at the foot of Moss
Ghyll at noon and then started to climb it, but decided it was too wet and slimy for
us.
We went on a bit further and climbed a steep wall leading to the Progress. From
there we did Steep Ghyll Slabs, which I particularly enjoyed. We took our time over
this climb and seeing the very ‘greasy’ pitches ahead, went back along the Corridor
Route. It took rather a long time getting back to the camp and after a meal, we
packed up the kit and started back to Langdale. It was 9 pm when we reached the
hotel again and we had no cycle lights. So we cycled carefully to Skelwith Bridge,
pitched the tent in pitch darkness and had bread and cheese for supper. At 6.45 am
we had breakfast, packed the tent and I cycled back to Windermere, to get to school
by 9 am. We had had a grand time and we had done - a chimney climb, a crack
climb, ridge climb, gully climb, face climb and a slab climb - a good assortment.
We did some other climbing together, mainly climbs of about "Difficult" or "Very
Difficult" standard, not very special. I did a bit of other climbing on my own, but
nothing very serious; it was all rather low key compared with the present day’s
extreme climbing routes, but enjoyable. Later Bill invited me to go on an expedition
to the Himalayas - to climb Masherbrum. I would have given anything to go, but I
was still at school and I couldn't afford the cost. Bill went and wrote back, with
exciting tales and photographs. I determined to do something similar as soon as I
could.
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