Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

of it, although her motor boat made a remarkable journey round the coast to
Possession Bay to seek help. Despite this, the first anyone knew of the event was
when we steamed around a headland near the mouth of King Haakon Bay in Albatros
and saw some figures among the tussac behind the beach waving to us; I think it was
in Nilse Hullet. Although it happened very quickly, all the crew had survived the
shipwreck, because of their very professional seamanship and experience in handling
boats and reacting to events. They had been living under an upturned boat for a
week, eating albatross chicks and elephant seal meat. I was disappointed that I had
missed such an experience; they all seemed to have thrived on it!
This shipwreck confirmed just how dangerous these waters were, for the
hydrographic charts were inaccurate and the sealers relied to a considerable extent
on their own hand-drawn maps, or used no maps at all (having the knowledge in
their heads). The Don Samuel had been steaming ‘full fart’ - full speed - heading for an
anchorage for the night, when, in deep water, it hit a rock and sank in a couple of
minutes. Ironically these rocks were later charted and named Samuel Islands in l958.
(There is another hazard in the area called "Hammarstadt Reef" and for many years I
thought Don Samuel had foundered on those rocks! It couldn't have happened to a
nicer man!). As a result of this shipwreck, the sealing boats were fitted with radio
transmitters from the next season onwards).
Although we had been heading for Isfjord, we actually went into Wilson
Harbour and spent the night there surrounded by glaciers that were calving
continuously and making a noise like heavy guns. The water in these fjords was
incredibly clear and blue-green. I had never seen anything quite like it - the nearest
concept is liquid ice. Off the glacier fronts, particularly the bigger ones, the sea is a
milky green-blue and opaque, due to the glacier flour or dust carried down by the
glaciers - and sharply demarcated from the clear water of the open sea. Well, we had
a quiet night and went ashore at 4.30 am, to work a long beach. From Wilson
Harbour we went to Elephant Bay. That was an incredible place, and a surprise, even
though I had been there before. You sail along miles of high forbidding cliffs, then
the ship turns and heads straight for them and you think the man at the wheel must
be drunk. But, suddenly a narrow channel opens and passing through we find
ourselves in a pleasant bay with rolling hills behind and two glaciers - everything is
green; the water, the ice and the tussock-covered land. There are several such spots
on this coast. Later we went into Langestrand and worked for 6 -7 hours in torrential
rain, most unpleasant. Then it froze, but later cleared again. Arne Bogen once again
the gunner this trip, said in his quaint English "Ef I your place, I no work - I stay in
bed all day, go sleeps". We had a minor happening in the afternoon. It was very
rough and the heavy motor boat capsized and rapidly sank; fortunately it was
attached to the Albatros at the time, not just with a painter, but with a stronger rope.
It took an hour or so to raise it and get it on board. a remarkable achievement I
thought, given the limited capacity of the equipment available. These men are very
practical and adaptable - and extremely good seamen.
It was nearly the end of the elephants’ breeding season and on the beaches now
were mainly pups, lying together like sardines in a tin. They are the only kind of
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