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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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Taking a picnic we drove to Carvoera, where there were interesting red<br />

cliffs in many grotesque shapes with caves <strong>and</strong> tunnels <strong>and</strong> grottos <strong>and</strong> deep<br />

blue sea beyond! Albufeira, now a crowded tourist resort, was then a small<br />

fishing village on long quiet beach under the cliffs, but it stank <strong>and</strong> the sea was<br />

dirty. The colourful fishing boats were drawn up on the s<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> the nets<br />

spread out to dry. It was a long day's drive home to Estoril via our favourite<br />

place Arrabida <strong>and</strong> the fishing village of Sesimbra which was very quaint.<br />

We stayed in Portugal until the end of the month, enjoying every day to<br />

the full, doing something different, until we boarded the Blue Star line's<br />

cargo/passenger ship RMS "Uruguay Star", returning from South America,<br />

taking passage to Southampton. We had three nights on board. The small<br />

group of passengers included Gerald Durrell, the naturalist <strong>and</strong> author of a<br />

number of very amusing, informative <strong>and</strong> readable books on natural history.<br />

He <strong>and</strong> his wife were returning from a field trip with a live collection of South<br />

American animals, including an anteater <strong>and</strong> monkeys. We ourselves had a<br />

vast amount of luggage <strong>and</strong> large crates <strong>and</strong> wooden drums of wedding<br />

presents – nothing live though. Our heavy luggage was consigned to the<br />

‘British Museum (Natural History)’, which had kindly agreed to store this<br />

mixed cargo until we could deal with it; possibly I had told them it was a<br />

collection of specimens! And so we came to our first home in Wormley,<br />

Surrey, near Godalming: it was a tiny wooden cottage that I had found with the<br />

help of NIO, with a small garden full of flowers, fruit trees <strong>and</strong> a minute lawn.<br />

We called it "the base hut" as it looked <strong>and</strong> was primitive, like a small Antarctic<br />

field hut. Appropriately only one rather small bed was provided for the two of<br />

us! We rented it for a few months until we could find something larger.<br />

At the end of July we collected a 7-week-old male cocker spaniel – a<br />

copper-coloured bundle of mischief whom we called ‘Br<strong>and</strong>y’. It took ages to<br />

get to the kennels <strong>and</strong> back, as we had to use bike, bus <strong>and</strong> train as transport;<br />

in those days we had no car. Then in September we moved into an Admiralty<br />

'pre-fab' bungalow in Hatchett's Drive, in a very pretty situation on top of<br />

Woolmer Hill, outside Haslemere. Leonard <strong>and</strong> his car helped to move all our<br />

stuff <strong>and</strong> the next day with Br<strong>and</strong>y we moved in. The weekly rent was 2l<br />

shillings! So our life assumed a new pattern as I became a commuter <strong>and</strong> took<br />

the stopping train down the line to Witley Station <strong>and</strong> the National <strong>Institute</strong> of<br />

Oceanography (NIO) where I now worked. We enjoyed the long evenings <strong>and</strong><br />

the weekends, when we explored the surrounding countryside. The area<br />

around our home was really beautiful <strong>and</strong> we did plenty of cycling to explore<br />

it. Nearby were the hills <strong>and</strong> valleys of Hindhead <strong>and</strong> the Devil's Punch Bowl,<br />

full of heathers, russet bracken, trees <strong>and</strong> bushes. There were pretty little lakes<br />

in Waggoner's Wells <strong>and</strong> at Frensham Ponds, <strong>and</strong> Blackdown Heath was not<br />

too far away by bicycle. Br<strong>and</strong>y had a lovely time running along with us, or<br />

sitting in the basket on the h<strong>and</strong>lebars.<br />

December came with deep snow <strong>and</strong> we travelled up to Edinburgh where I<br />

was to receive the "Bruce" medal for my Antarctic work from the Royal Society<br />

463

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