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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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cleft in the rocks - it was unable to move <strong>and</strong> we could not extract her. Morton <strong>and</strong><br />

Malcolm had seen her during the census yesterday <strong>and</strong> I had brought my rifle to<br />

shoot her to end her pain <strong>and</strong> distress. A very wet day followed. We went over to<br />

the fank in the morning but spent most of the day sheltering <strong>and</strong> doing odd jobs.<br />

The news that Minna would not be with us before Wednesday 2 November was<br />

disappointing; we were expecting her on Monday. I sent a message to Maureen to<br />

warn her. I was on cook <strong>and</strong> made a curry in the evening, which was much<br />

appreciated.<br />

The last day of October was cool <strong>and</strong> the sun rose like a ball of fire below low<br />

clouds that dispersed <strong>and</strong> gave us fairly bright sunshine <strong>and</strong> a clear sky for a<br />

couple of hours. I took a few photos. We went over to the fank where we br<strong>and</strong>ed<br />

<strong>and</strong> tagged all morning; it was slow work because Jim was filming <strong>and</strong> he had<br />

trouble with his camera. I took shots of the br<strong>and</strong>ing <strong>and</strong> tagging operations. In<br />

the afternoon we tagged again for a couple of hours. Then we began to repack <strong>and</strong><br />

clear up the fank camp. I went to look at the large cave in Sgeildige Geo, scrambling<br />

down from the headl<strong>and</strong> to the shelf of rock <strong>and</strong> looked in. The cave is a very<br />

regular arch – cutting straight into the cliff with shear sides <strong>and</strong> the cliff is marked<br />

with patches <strong>and</strong> bird droppings <strong>and</strong> contorted strata. The swell from the West<br />

ran straight into the cave <strong>and</strong> produced a deep <strong>and</strong> impressive booming. On that<br />

day the beautiful deep sea green of the water was marked by foam swirling<br />

around the reddish rocks. <strong>Seals</strong> were swimming <strong>and</strong> playing in the geo.<br />

Returning to the fank I took a telephoto of Sula Sgeir in the evening light <strong>and</strong><br />

we had a casserole steak for supper. We had been successfully sending <strong>and</strong><br />

receiving messages in the evenings through Archie at the Butt of Lewis <strong>and</strong> I heard<br />

from Maureen at the evening radio schedule that Sheelagh, Maureen's sister, had<br />

given birth to a baby girl, so was able to send my congratulations. Archie broke the<br />

news - <strong>and</strong> we had a dram on the strength of it.<br />

In the bright moonlight I went out for a couple of hours - to the top of Toa Rona<br />

with Morton. There were fishing boats to the East <strong>and</strong> southwest. The Cape Wrath<br />

light, flashing red <strong>and</strong> white, was clearly visible. There was beautiful moonlight on<br />

the water <strong>and</strong> a very fine Aurora borealis in apple green curtains <strong>and</strong> streaks. We<br />

stood at the top of the Pap <strong>and</strong> took it all in. The sea was dark grey, with white surf<br />

<strong>and</strong> black rocks <strong>and</strong> the lighter bulk of the main isl<strong>and</strong>. Seal noises were carried on<br />

the air <strong>and</strong> Fianuis was clear in the moonlight. Jim was there recording the seal<br />

noises. He flashed a torch <strong>and</strong> we answered him. Then Morton went down to the<br />

fank to join him <strong>and</strong> I followed his course by the flashes. Malcolm was out too <strong>and</strong><br />

went on to the Manse. I stayed up there for some time taking in the magic of it all<br />

before I went down home.<br />

1 November was a wild day with a wind of gale force 8 <strong>and</strong> heavy seas<br />

pounding the isl<strong>and</strong>, which was continuously ringed with surf. Many pups must<br />

have been washed away. We lay in our sleeping bags after a cup of tea <strong>and</strong> bread<br />

<strong>and</strong> jam. Then Morton <strong>and</strong> I went across to the fank to give a weather report to<br />

Minna at noon. However they could not hear us, so Archie at the Butt of Lewis<br />

passed on our message. I also sent a message to the Nature Conservancy asking<br />

them to explain the circumstances to the NIO, my employers!<br />

The weather continued vicious, with the wind to the southeast <strong>and</strong> harrying<br />

our roof, so that it was very clamorous. We overhauled the roof in the afternoon,<br />

487

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