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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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idge was silhouetted against a dark blue-black sky. In places were subtle bluepurple<br />

tints <strong>and</strong> Mount Noble peering over the white curtain of the ridge was a<br />

touch green in hue. A few snowies had been about that day <strong>and</strong> by nightfall were<br />

chattering as usual on the crags. The bay was bathed in bright moonlight but<br />

Coronation was shrouded in a checkerwork pattern of diffuse cloud shadows. The<br />

moon reflected from the bay ice had a double intensity; <strong>and</strong> the ice slopes of Robin<br />

Peak <strong>and</strong> the central ice cap sparkled like tinsel as it shone on the many discrete<br />

patches of bare blue ice. There was a mystical quality about the scene which kept me<br />

st<strong>and</strong>ing in my shirt-sleeves with the thermometers registering 7°C of frost. It was<br />

only the cold that eventually drove me indoors. The snowies by then were silent <strong>and</strong><br />

the only sound outside was of the ice creaking <strong>and</strong> groaning.<br />

A few days later the moon came up <strong>and</strong> after dinner Derek <strong>and</strong> I went up onto<br />

Observation Bluff, where we sat companionably for half an hour. The moonlight lit<br />

up the snow <strong>and</strong> made it sparkle like diamonds. The stars were very bright in a deep<br />

blue sky <strong>and</strong> snowies were flying close about us. Low fog banks condensed over the<br />

pack <strong>and</strong> moved in. Coronation Isl<strong>and</strong> was draped with cloud, but the peaks rose<br />

above it <strong>and</strong> in places the layer was so thin that one could make out the moonlit<br />

details of glaciers <strong>and</strong> ridges through it.<br />

At the end of May Derek <strong>and</strong> Ralph went down to the shore near the digesters<br />

<strong>and</strong> ventured out onto the floes just offshore. They brought in three excellent fish <strong>and</strong><br />

solved my difficulty as cook of producing a novel dish for dinner. Later we skied,<br />

but the rain had made the surface crust very icy <strong>and</strong> very unpleasant for skiing, as<br />

one cannot edge at all.<br />

At the start of June a blizzard moved quite a depth of snow onto the slope <strong>and</strong><br />

we all three spent a large part of the morning skiing, all three having more or less<br />

painful mishaps. Derek fell <strong>and</strong> twisted his wrist, spraining it. I did the same to my<br />

knee when one ski came free, as I was enjoying an exhilarating, fast run down the<br />

snow gulley <strong>and</strong> Ralph fell a few times. We rubbed afflicted parts with oil of<br />

wintergreen.<br />

Next day the snow surface was excellent <strong>and</strong> Ralph <strong>and</strong> Derek were skiing most<br />

of the day, doing Bilgeri exercises to the gramophone. (The Polish Army<br />

ski manual, written by a Colonel Bilgeri, was our bible, translated into English by the<br />

father of my Cambridge friend Norman Holme who had given me a copy). They<br />

made quite an amusing sight practicing ‘dipping-<strong>and</strong>-swinging’ to a very fast record.<br />

I took some photographs of them 'skiing on the spot' <strong>and</strong> then went in to work in the<br />

lab. as my knee was very painful. We all went onto the 'nursery' slopes another<br />

morning after a new fall of snow <strong>and</strong> I was up to some good Telemark turns <strong>and</strong><br />

jumps <strong>and</strong> jump turns. Later in the day we had several runs down from the col <strong>and</strong><br />

Ralph <strong>and</strong> I stayed out until after dark. Next day in the evening we all skied until<br />

after dark though Derek had to go in to see to the evening meal. I had now more or<br />

less mastered the Telemark swing to the left, <strong>and</strong> I also did some jump-turns at rather<br />

greater angles than before. We spent several more happy hours during June<br />

improving our performance.<br />

Towards the end of June Derek <strong>and</strong> I skied on the fresh snow, a covering of<br />

about 2 ins. on top of the hard icy surface, <strong>and</strong> consequently when turning we<br />

skidded. It was rather fun coming down the slope at speed <strong>and</strong> side-slipping for<br />

some 20 yards. I built a small ski jump at the foot of the slope, with an elevation of 3-<br />

170

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