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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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celebrity, for his avant-garde art. His ‘Merz barn wall’ collage became famous later,<br />

<strong>and</strong> I suppose I was one of the first to see it. It receives a mention in Gombrich's, ‘The<br />

story of Art’ <strong>and</strong> is now at the Walker Art Gallery, Newcastle. However I must<br />

confess that I wasn't too impressed at the time! We also visited the Pillar Hotel in the<br />

Langdale Estate, a number of cottages surrounding a restaurant. It was well<br />

designed <strong>and</strong> the crystal-clear water in river <strong>and</strong> pools sets off the Langdale green<br />

slate dry-walled buildings.<br />

One day Bill <strong>and</strong> I travelled with the Woods to Darlington by car. We were<br />

shown Mrs Woods' old haunts <strong>and</strong> also taken around the family wool Mill.<br />

The Lakel<strong>and</strong> Fells <strong>and</strong> rock climbing<br />

It was impossible during the War to contemplate climbing in the Alps, but I<br />

developed a deep love of hills <strong>and</strong> mountains, which will remain until I die. The<br />

English Lake District is unique, a jewel of great beauty <strong>and</strong> I always return to it with<br />

a lifting of the heart. I know it better than any other similar-sized piece of the earth<br />

<strong>and</strong> have walked along most of its tracks <strong>and</strong> climbed most of the hills; I also did a<br />

bit of rock climbing.<br />

My first real fell walk, in July l940, shortly after we arrived at Windermere, was<br />

with a school party led by Charles Hay <strong>and</strong> another master William Pennington. We<br />

cycled about fifteen miles to Langdale <strong>and</strong>, leaving our bikes near the Dungeon<br />

Ghyll Hotel, scrambled up to Stickle Tarn. Then on up endless grassy <strong>and</strong> heathery<br />

slopes to High Raise <strong>and</strong> Low White Stones, on to the Langdale Pikes <strong>and</strong> down<br />

again, to cycle back to Windermere. It was a very hot <strong>and</strong> dry day, but most<br />

enjoyable <strong>and</strong> I never looked back after this first stimulating experience (I don't<br />

count Skiddaw, climbed earlier). The next one was up Striding Edge to the summit of<br />

Helvellyn, having cycled to Patterdale on Ullswater.<br />

The pattern that quickly became established was to cycle, usually to Langdale,<br />

then walk up Mickleden to Rossett Ghyll, to Angle Tarn <strong>and</strong> Esk Hause, <strong>and</strong> from<br />

there to Scafell, Gable, Bowfell or other tops. Sometimes we covered several summits<br />

in one day, running much of the way. Increasingly I went on my own <strong>and</strong> as long as<br />

I was back for school at 9.0 am on Monday morning there were no restrictions. I can<br />

remember that sometimes I was very tired by the time I got to the bottom of the hill<br />

leading to Green Gables <strong>and</strong> it was as much as I could do to push my bike up to the<br />

house. I really enjoyed those adventures on the Lakel<strong>and</strong> fells.<br />

One day in August Bill <strong>and</strong> I left early in the morning to climb Helvellyn. via<br />

Striding Edge with seventeen others. It turned out a very wet <strong>and</strong> misty day <strong>and</strong> we<br />

returned wet through. The only waterproof I had was an army ground sheet cape,<br />

but because it was rubber sheeting the sweat condensed inside <strong>and</strong> was as wetting as<br />

the rain! We decided in future to give really wet days a miss if we could in spite of a<br />

desire “to brave the elements". Next time, we were out for the day climbing in<br />

perfect weather, up Great Gable, via Esk Hause with four masters <strong>and</strong> 14 boys. In<br />

good weather; the party divided almost from the beginning into three groups; led by<br />

Mr Hay, with Mr Milum <strong>and</strong> Mr Mayfield in the rear. I was in Hay's party <strong>and</strong><br />

climbed Scafell Pike after descending Great Gable. Mayfield's party joined us later<br />

for a bathe beneath Gimmer Crag, in Mickleden. Some girls came along as we were<br />

bathing in the nude <strong>and</strong> we were embarrassed. Mayfield: "It doesn't matter<br />

boys, don't panic. If they are ladies they won't look <strong>and</strong> if they aren't, it doesn't<br />

45

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