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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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Next day began as a glorious morning, with sparkling snow cover, sea <strong>and</strong><br />

bright blue sky. Not a cloud was to be seen. I took a pot of paint <strong>and</strong> skied along the<br />

beach counting the seals. I had timed it well; no pups had yet been born to the south<br />

east, but I paint-marked the bull near the stream with a “red-nose”; he was rather<br />

pugnacious. One cow was in the snow near the water, shivering violently, probably<br />

near to parturition; another lay on the beach, scratching her hind flippers together.<br />

Several of the cows had an infection in the form of orange pustules, looking like a<br />

fungus, on face <strong>and</strong> back. It was more noticeable when the cows were wet, but not<br />

very apparent when they dried. They appeared to be of all age groups, perhaps more<br />

young than old. (I hadn’t seen this before at Signy Isl<strong>and</strong>).<br />

After lunch I sat in the sun for a while <strong>and</strong> then went round the areas to the east,<br />

to count the seals. One cow had pupped in area 8 <strong>and</strong> I painted her with a red XO on<br />

her rump (for convenience cow A); her pup was small <strong>and</strong> very quiet. All the seals<br />

appeared very timid compared with those in the South Orkneys; due to the sealers<br />

perhaps. I returned later <strong>and</strong> took the sledge over to fetch the generator. I painted<br />

another cow (yellow-right-spot; cow B) <strong>and</strong> a bull (yellow-nose; bull B) in the harem by<br />

the camp, <strong>and</strong> would continue paint marking new arrivals in order to get timed data<br />

on them, <strong>and</strong> to follow their movements <strong>and</strong> changing behaviour. It clouded over<br />

<strong>and</strong> the wind began to blow, so I returned to the tent, where I wrote up notes etc.<br />

read a book <strong>and</strong> listened to a puerile detective play on the radio before climbing into<br />

my sleeping bag.<br />

21 September was a watery morning with threatening bank of cloud in the east,<br />

when I left on a round of the beaches. One bull had now moved up to the top of the<br />

slope, just east of the camp <strong>and</strong> bull B had moved about 300 yards south. In general<br />

the bulls appeared to be waking up to their responsibilities. There had been plenty of<br />

roaring during the night <strong>and</strong> evidence in the snow of their conflicts. Several bulls had<br />

small harems now – the largest was of 16 cows in area 8 <strong>and</strong> the bull was collecting<br />

more, <strong>and</strong> preventing others from leaving. Altogether there were 3 new pups. I<br />

marked the cows with a red-O to serve as identification of date of birth. Two of them<br />

were exceedingly timid <strong>and</strong> didn’t even stay to defend their pup, but the third was<br />

quite vicious.<br />

I had done the southern beaches <strong>and</strong> was heading for the point itself when I saw<br />

“Stella”, but she appeared to be going in the wrong direction. Then Arthur appeared<br />

as I approached the paint depot. He had l<strong>and</strong>ed from the dinghy just inside Moraine<br />

Fjord. Charlie had been about to come to fix my generator, which was giving trouble,<br />

but took one look at the surf <strong>and</strong> flatly refused. Arthur accompanied me round the<br />

rest of the beaches <strong>and</strong> we got back for lunch at noon. There were 118 elephants here<br />

- compared with 7 he had counted yesterday on Hestesletten. After lunch we<br />

climbed the hill behind <strong>and</strong> I showed him the giant petrel nests. Then we walked<br />

southwards, re-crossed the ridge by a col into Moraine Fjord <strong>and</strong> returned to camp in<br />

driving snow. I wrote a letter, since this will be the last chance of catching “Harpon”<br />

before she heads north, <strong>and</strong> we went over to the dinghy after a cup of coffee.<br />

Visibility was very low, it was “blizzing”, <strong>and</strong> the breakers didn’t look too good, but<br />

Arthur in the dinghy rode them well. There was no sign of “Stella” so he began to<br />

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