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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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<strong>and</strong> groans as the ice took the strain of the tide. I went over to look at the coast<br />

around North Point <strong>and</strong> had a surprisingly good view from one of the rock<br />

buttresses. So far as I could see there were no seal of any species on that stretch of<br />

coast or on floes. On the beach west of Jane Peak were six medium elephants <strong>and</strong> I<br />

thought it quite likely that these were the sole surviving seals on the west coast, since<br />

on my previous survey there were very few more to the south.<br />

Next day an elephant came up to breathe in the tide crack at Berntsen Point <strong>and</strong><br />

submerged again. Then I heard heavy breathing <strong>and</strong> in the next ‘creek’ saw two<br />

elephants – their heads just above water. They submerged for 3 1 2 min <strong>and</strong><br />

reappeared further along the coast. The following day I watched an elephant that<br />

was using the tide-crack as a breathing hole. It floated there staring up at me looking<br />

very serious <strong>and</strong> surprisingly intelligent, then yawned <strong>and</strong> submerged slowly. It was<br />

gone with a flick of its tail <strong>and</strong> a creaking of the ice.<br />

A few days later three elephants hauled out in deep snow near the pool on the<br />

point, but only one remained when I went down after dark <strong>and</strong> it had changed<br />

position. Clambering over the rocks I heard a curious regular thumping <strong>and</strong> was at a<br />

loss for an explanation until I saw a black shape moving rapidly across the ice in<br />

spurts of about 20 yards. It was an elephant <strong>and</strong> moving in a dead-straight line.<br />

When I went along to where it was headed I found it lying in the tide crack; it had<br />

come across from Outer Islet in about 2 min – not bad going for such an ungainly<br />

beast.<br />

After breakfast next day I went to the Point to look for seals <strong>and</strong> birds, <strong>and</strong> found<br />

one elephant seal jammed between two ice blocks, where I had left it the previous<br />

night <strong>and</strong> one out on a floe near the breaking rock. On the ice was a large set of tracks<br />

going out towards Outer Islet, then turning around about 100 yards out. It was the<br />

track of the elephant seal I had seen last night moving across the ice. The tracks<br />

looked like a colossal loop of film – the body track forming the film frames <strong>and</strong> the<br />

flipper tracks the sprocket holes – <strong>and</strong> I felt it was worth a photograph as it gave a<br />

good idea of the method of locomotion. Another seal in the cave West of Knife Point<br />

turned out to be an elephant <strong>and</strong> several other elephants were moving out over the<br />

ice.<br />

On 22 May I walked across the bay ice to Drying Point. It was quite safe now <strong>and</strong><br />

about 10 in thick with 2 in of new snow on top of the ice; this short cut made it only a<br />

short stroll now to Elephant Flats <strong>and</strong> one could avoid the Stone Chute, ascending<br />

which was always a bit of a bind. I counted the seals, 57 in all, <strong>and</strong> then Derek turned<br />

back <strong>and</strong> I headed for the next beach. Only two seals were present now, where earlier<br />

there had been over 200. I had meant to cover the entire coastline up to Berryman<br />

Bay but as I had forgotten my snow goggles thought it best to turn back at Balin<br />

Point. Later I found only one seal in the area. It was struggling along a tide crack just<br />

east of the isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> frequently breaking through, but it hadn't the sense to leave the<br />

crack for the firm ice. Possibly it saw it as a track to follow.<br />

The succeeding day produced a marked drop in the number of elephants visible<br />

from Drying Point beach <strong>and</strong> about six were crossing the bay ice eastwards towards<br />

open water. Earlier one mature bull had headed west towards Drying Point <strong>and</strong> I<br />

watched it move slowly across the bay from Bare Rock; possibly it was returning<br />

from a fishing excursion. Next day when I went down to the point the elephant there<br />

had sunk quite deeply between two ice blocks <strong>and</strong> its body was badly twisted. It<br />

250

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