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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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condensing provided an artificial halo. Sometimes too there was a natural halo - like<br />

a rainbow, except that it was a ring around the moon, not opposite to it <strong>and</strong> the<br />

colouring was fainter <strong>and</strong> more delicate.<br />

Some nights too the snowies (snow petrels) were in. They flew back <strong>and</strong> forth<br />

outside their nests along the face of the forbidding black crags, sometimes provoking<br />

the occupants of another nest to chatter at them for coming too close, but usually<br />

quite silent. If I sat still near the nests they might l<strong>and</strong> at my side, as the prions often<br />

did, mistaking me for a rock. Usually they appeared quite suddenly like ghosts <strong>and</strong><br />

disappeared just as quickly. Sometimes they were outlined against the moon for a<br />

moment <strong>and</strong> its light shone through the feathers of their wings <strong>and</strong> they might hover<br />

for a second framed by the lunar halo - incredibly beautiful <strong>and</strong> spiritual they were.<br />

Then I would begin to feel a bit chilly after a time - remember that the temperature<br />

was probably -7°C or so - <strong>and</strong> feel really cold. Sometimes I climbed a bit higher so as<br />

to look down into Paal Harbour, the sea corrie on the other side of the ridge behind<br />

the hut <strong>and</strong>, warmed by the exertion, could sit for a while longer, with the snowies<br />

wafting about in the stillness. I had a view out over the pack towards the Antarctic<br />

continent at the other side of the Weddell Sea a thous<strong>and</strong> miles to the southeast. Then<br />

down again to the warmth of the hut <strong>and</strong> off to bed. These clear nights (<strong>and</strong> days)<br />

were one of the bonuses of the winter period.<br />

At other times, while the weather was poor I would have been doing some<br />

enlarging. I must have accumulated about 500 negatives by then <strong>and</strong> most of them<br />

were quite good. I might also have completed another watercolour; I still had a<br />

number of them to be worked up from the sketches made over the last year. So I<br />

would plan on a session the next week <strong>and</strong> try to get photos <strong>and</strong> paintings done<br />

before we went out sledging - I expected to have a lot more material to work up<br />

when we got back.<br />

On another typical evening everyone would be the picture of industry. In one<br />

corner Charlie would be mending a pair of boots with great exertion <strong>and</strong> constant<br />

thumps. John perched on his stool at the set calling amateur radio operators -<br />

perhaps there was a Russian on at the moment – Moscow, or Hawaii. Derek, sitting<br />

near the stove, would be working out some angles in connection with the survey.<br />

Perhaps I had a great wash of socks that week - there might be about l5 pairs in the<br />

tub <strong>and</strong> they would already have had three changes of water without any<br />

appreciable effect. They got very oily working with the seals - <strong>and</strong> the birds, which<br />

ejected evil smelling oil.<br />

Painting: During the two winters I completed a number of paintings <strong>and</strong> sketches. I<br />

also did four oil paintings but two were unfinished as I ran out of pigments. I<br />

enjoyed drawing exactly <strong>and</strong> realistically from nature <strong>and</strong> in earlier y<strong>ears</strong> I had put<br />

in a lot of time <strong>and</strong> hard work to achieve control over pencil, pen <strong>and</strong> brush.<br />

However, it was in the Antarctic that my painting really began to take-off. I had<br />

brought a stock of sketchbooks, paper <strong>and</strong> watercolour materials, of the best quality I<br />

could afford. On the voyage out, although the ship was very small <strong>and</strong> cramped for<br />

space, there was plenty of time; in the tropics it was very hot <strong>and</strong> the paint dried very<br />

quickly on the paper, posing difficulties. I did a little sketching in the Falkl<strong>and</strong>s, but<br />

the early months at Signy were very busy indeed, so I didn't begin drawing <strong>and</strong><br />

painting until the beginning of winter, when the elephant seals had left.<br />

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