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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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Oh! I love to waddle waddle<br />

On the fringes of the Weddell<br />

I'm a seal much sought by science on these shores<br />

So if by chance you find me<br />

Just stop <strong>and</strong> look behind me<br />

Then report sex, size <strong>and</strong> shape to Dickie Laws.<br />

We had sighted no l<strong>and</strong> since St Vincent, but now woke to a wild dawn to<br />

see the isl<strong>and</strong> of Fern<strong>and</strong>o Noronha on the western horizon <strong>and</strong> the<br />

whitewashed buildings of a penal settlement <strong>and</strong> a leper colony. I made a<br />

watercolour sketch. The most conspicuous feature was a long curved tooth of<br />

rock, 1,200 feet high, which overhangs. Darwin described the isl<strong>and</strong> as being<br />

covered with dense vegetation. I could see the streaks of lava flows <strong>and</strong> volcanic<br />

rubble <strong>and</strong> scree running down into the deep green of the coastal fringe. Large<br />

numbers of birds from nesting colonies on the isl<strong>and</strong> flew past the ship,<br />

evidently bound for their fishing grounds. Most interesting was the large great<br />

frigate bird, with white throat <strong>and</strong> breast, long black tail <strong>and</strong> wings. It sailed<br />

slowly <strong>and</strong> majestically over the ship. There were a few flocks of terns about,<br />

probably sooty terns <strong>and</strong> a few of the smaller brown-winged tern. In addition<br />

there were large numbers of brown <strong>and</strong> blue-faced boobies, which were seen<br />

again later in the day. Two other birds were: a buffy-grey plover with a white<br />

rump <strong>and</strong> Leach's fork-tailed petrel.<br />

Pat Toynbee told me that he had seen numbers of phosphorescent jellyfish<br />

while he was on watch <strong>and</strong> throughout the day we saw beautiful pale pink-lilac<br />

‘Portuguese men o’ war’ (Physalia); attempts to catch one were abortive.<br />

Dolphins joined us from time to time as well as schools of tuna. We had a lucid<br />

talk from Eric Platt on field geology. I spent some time compiling biological<br />

instructions to the bases <strong>and</strong> gave a couple of talks on seals.<br />

Derek produced another piece of verse:<br />

Well Capn i met<br />

tubby the steward<br />

tryin to find a<br />

bottle of gin in the<br />

forrard hold this<br />

morning<br />

a helluva comedown<br />

this is for me cock<br />

he says a few<br />

brief centuries<br />

ago one of the<br />

chief bull<br />

ele<br />

phant<br />

seals<br />

94

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