Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

- nearly half of the time available - without seeing a whale; I decided to extend my
stay instead of taking some leave near Bergen as planned. It was such a waste of
time hanging around at the factory, but I had been able to do some writing.
We sighted a Fin whale at l0.57 am. and chased it until l.38 pm. It seemed very
intelligent because time and again it doubled back and we'd be watching the
empty sea for a quarter of an hour before someone would shout that it was behind
us or to port or to starboard - never where we expected to see it. However the
gunner eventually took it with one shot; it was fastened alongside like a huge fish,
and we headed southwards again. If we saw any whales on our way home we'd
chase them. Berg Bjorn - the boat Purves was on had been unlucky, but they were
chasing a whale just then. It was very cold up on the bridge which was open to the
strong breeze, but the gunner signalled me to come down to the cabin with him
for a glass of home-brewed liquor - it was warming if nothing else.
On Tuesday 28 June I was up at 2.30 am and we chased another whale, but
again it was too intelligent so we headed for the station, appreciating a wonderful
scene in the east - snow mountains lit up by the sun, others grey and misty shapes.
The sea was mirror calm and reflecting the sky's colours. We passed various rocky
islets - one with several seals on it and reached the station at about 4.0 am. I
worked on the "plan" (a wooden deck where the whales were dismembered) until
6.30 am when I took an hour's sleep before I needed to be there again. Purves
arrived back that night having enjoyed his trip. Next day we were both up at 2.30
am to examine two whales - under a wonderful sunrise of reds and golds. To bed
again at 5.00 am, up at 7.30 am for breakfast and then back to the whales at 8.00
am. They took a longer time to work them up there (than at South Georgia or on
the Balaena), because they took the meat for human and dog food. It was not
allowed to touch the plan, but cut straight from the whale into wheelbarrows and
wheeled to the benches where it was prepared and packed in boxes for freezing.
We finished work at 11.00 am., lunch was at noon and I slept in the afternoon for a
few hours. Time went by slowly and in the absence of whales there was not much
to keep us occupied. Small coastal passenger boats call once or twice a day and we
thought of going to Molde or Alesund but it was hardly worth it.
On 30 June I got up later than usual because no whales were expected until
11.30 am. We spent the morning and part of the afternoon working on the plan.
Our boxes of equipment etc. had arrived at last; we unpacked them and felt much
more at home in working clothes. There had been only one whale that day which
we examined from 5 pm. to 8 pm. and there would be no more until Tuesday, 5
July. After supper we went for a stroll. It was a very monotonous life - only 8
whales since I arrived - and there were few English speakers.
They didn't catch whales on Sunday because of religious observance, and this
meant that no whales came into the station until Monday night or Tuesday
morning. So we decided to go into Molde on Monday by boat and then across the
fjord to Helland and by bus to Alesund - returning to Steinshamn by boat. It
would relieve the monotony. The boat left for Molde at 7.00 am hours, but we both
slept until we heard its hooter and had 5 minutes to dress and get down to the
jetty. We made it, unshaven and dishevelled, but determined not to stay behind
for another fruitless day. It was a dull day with fairly low cloud but occasional
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