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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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possible. The shore here was deeply indented with narrow coves <strong>and</strong> the headl<strong>and</strong>s<br />

between were high <strong>and</strong> very steep, so any survey was necessarily laborious. There<br />

were very few suitable elephant seal beaches (indeed during that day I observed only<br />

12 elephants). Now that I knew the position of the possible beaches, ensuing surveys<br />

would be much less laborious since it would be all right to miss out stretches of the<br />

coast. I made my way around Porteous Point <strong>and</strong> into Cummings Cove.<br />

Two days later Derek counted the seals between base <strong>and</strong> Orwell Glacier for me.<br />

There were very few in Elephant Flats now as it was pretty well iced over with only a<br />

small area of open water in the centre. Next day, as the weather looked so promising<br />

I decided to go over to the Port Jebsen coast to finish the all-isl<strong>and</strong> seal census.<br />

Elephant Flats was quite frozen over <strong>and</strong> in our bay the new ice was forming<br />

pancakes. We cut across Orwell Glacier, then went across to Snow Hill <strong>and</strong> the rocks<br />

to the west. I intended striking across to where I broke off the survey of the west<br />

coast on the 11th but was forced to make a wide detour to avoid ice cliffs <strong>and</strong> steep<br />

slopes. Derek turned back about 1.30 pm <strong>and</strong> I made my way down the ice valley to<br />

the coast. I saw no Weddells or crabeaters <strong>and</strong> only one leopard, although there were<br />

many suitable floes. The elephants were very sparse.<br />

On the shore in the centre of Port Jebsen was a large boiler – from the wreck of<br />

the Tioga. It was here that a medium-sized male elephant seal charged me in a very<br />

atypical manner; I went back a few yards <strong>and</strong> then gave him a rap on the nose which<br />

made him quite noisy but he didn't try to attack me again. I continued the count to<br />

Cummings Cove, thus completing the survey of Signy Isl<strong>and</strong>. Then back over Tioga<br />

Hill <strong>and</strong> round the Horseshoe to Garnet Hill.<br />

Next week I went out again to count seals, hoping to get across the mouth of<br />

Elephant Flats on the floes but this wasn't possible as a near gale arose <strong>and</strong> I found<br />

open water at the entrance. So I made a count of the elephants on the south side of<br />

the Flats. Numbers had gone up, due no doubt to evacuation of the more ice-bound<br />

beaches. There were 119 in the area covered – mostly large males <strong>and</strong> only one<br />

undoubted female. On 26 April I counted the seals in the main study area starting at<br />

Stygian Cove. There had been a general falling off in numbers but still many groups<br />

of large bulls. (There were were 313 large males, 138 medium males, <strong>and</strong> 15 small<br />

males; I saw no females.) Making my way up Jane Peak I met Derek on the way<br />

down having taken all the bearings he needed. Together we went back to the beach<br />

<strong>and</strong> Ralph took Derek back for the Met Ob. I stayed over to finish the count, working<br />

north from Elephant Flats.<br />

The pack came in two days later <strong>and</strong> in half an hour the bay was full of large<br />

floes – on one of which was an elephant. Next day there was another elephant on<br />

floes near Berntsen Point. Two days later the pack was still in the bay <strong>and</strong> many<br />

elephant seals were venturing onto floes near the beaches. Their numbers seemed<br />

much less. On 1 May Ralph <strong>and</strong> I went up to Biggs Bluff <strong>and</strong> saw only four seals<br />

offshore on floes, one of which was a leopard <strong>and</strong> the others elephants. It was<br />

interesting to me that elephants hauled out on ice floes; this had not been reported<br />

before <strong>and</strong> was in extreme contrast to the northern elephant seal, which basks on<br />

sub-tropical beaches off California!<br />

Next day I made a count from Berntsen Point to the glacier returning after dark.<br />

The seals were rapidly falling off in numbers <strong>and</strong> most were in the water <strong>and</strong><br />

fighting; there were 44 on this stretch of coast. Next day Ralph <strong>and</strong> I had a look for<br />

247

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