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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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was closed to all traffic, the Backs were under water, Midsummer Common was a<br />

swimming pool for ducks <strong>and</strong> houses at Riverside had a foot of water in their<br />

ground floor rooms. At the Tivoli Cinema, near Mitcham's Corner the front stalls<br />

were flooded”.<br />

Fen Causeway really was a causeway, with swirling muddy waters on all sides.<br />

On 16 March a gale developed which added to the havoc, stripping the roof from the<br />

kitchens of Downing College. In Fitzroy Street the window of a Chemist's shop were<br />

smashed <strong>and</strong> roof tiles were stripped. Trees were uprooted <strong>and</strong> the chaos continued.<br />

All this was a foretaste of conditions I was to experience a year or so later, when I<br />

went down to the Antarctic; it was pre-adaptive although I didn't know it at the<br />

time! I was preoccupied with academic work, sports <strong>and</strong> social activities, which<br />

despite the privations continued unabated.<br />

A growing interest in <strong>Polar</strong> Exploration<br />

As a boy I had developed a strong interest in mountaineering <strong>and</strong> polar<br />

exploration, while living in the Lake District (Chapter 2). I had read many of the<br />

classic accounts of polar exploration - in fact we had taken Shackleton's classic<br />

‘South’ as a set book for the School Certificate English literature examination. I had<br />

been entranced by the descriptions of life in the polar regions <strong>and</strong> their natural<br />

history, <strong>and</strong> very impressed by the paintings <strong>and</strong> drawings of Edward Wilson <strong>and</strong><br />

the photographs of R F Ponting. Cambridge was the home of the <strong>Scott</strong> <strong>Polar</strong><br />

<strong>Research</strong> <strong>Institute</strong>, founded in memory of Captain R F <strong>Scott</strong> of the Antarctic, <strong>and</strong> it<br />

had in its archives the largest single collection of Wilson's watercolours. There was<br />

also an excellent polar library.<br />

The institute was the only centre of research in polar studies in Britain <strong>and</strong> one<br />

of few in the world, so it was a natural magnet for people interested in the history of<br />

the polar regions, or in planning expeditions. Naturally I gravitated there whenever<br />

I could find time <strong>and</strong> listened avidly to fascinating talk among the resident experts<br />

<strong>and</strong> visitors. Interested students were welcome to drop in for talk <strong>and</strong> there were<br />

some lectures to attend. We met in the small office of Elizabeth Rought who was the<br />

Director's Secretary, a charming, friendly <strong>and</strong> very pretty girl, several y<strong>ears</strong> older<br />

than us. We sat around on the floor, if it was crowded, <strong>and</strong> took tea <strong>and</strong> cakes.<br />

Among us from time to time was Christopher Brasher who was on the way to<br />

becoming a famous long distance runner, <strong>and</strong> an Olympic Gold Medallist - <strong>and</strong> had<br />

already been on polar expeditions.<br />

Dr Launcelot Fleming was the Director during my initial contacts <strong>and</strong> later Dr<br />

Colin Bertram was appointed Director. Dr Brian Roberts was attached to the<br />

<strong>Institute</strong> but spent most of his time as Head of the <strong>Polar</strong> Regions Section of the<br />

Foreign Office in London. Brian <strong>and</strong> Colin were biologists, (specializing in birds <strong>and</strong><br />

seals respectively) <strong>and</strong> Launcelot was a geologist but had later taken holy orders <strong>and</strong><br />

was now Dean of Trinity Hall. All three had been on the British Grahaml<strong>and</strong><br />

Expedition (BGLE), l934-37, sailing down to the Antarctic Peninsula on the steam<br />

yacht ‘Penola’ under the leadership of John Rymill, <strong>and</strong> between them there was a<br />

fund of fascinating experience. This was one of the most productive scientific<br />

expeditions of that time, which had set a st<strong>and</strong>ard for later work. The talk was all of<br />

dog travel, the wildlife, the rigours of the environment <strong>and</strong> the nature <strong>and</strong><br />

achievements of the men involved.<br />

69

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