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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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thicken. All day as we worked the silence was punctuated at intervals by the rumble<br />

of avalanches on Coronation. The barometer was shooting up rapidly <strong>and</strong> this lent to<br />

the silence a certain menace, which was borne out later in the day. At 5 o’clock we<br />

decided to take the dory across the bay <strong>and</strong> stopped work. I put on my 'tropical kit'<br />

(cotton jacket <strong>and</strong> trousers), which was perhaps the most satisfactory of our clothing.<br />

By then it was raining steadily as we rowed across the bay in a light breeze with<br />

elegant Dominican gulls wheeling <strong>and</strong> screaming around us. The water north of<br />

Billie Rocks was very shallow <strong>and</strong> the bottom was large, glacially deposited boulders<br />

with brown seaweed growing between them.<br />

We l<strong>and</strong>ed on the west shore of the entrance to Elephant Flats, near a large<br />

'smother' of elephant seals. Derek wanted to look at the light-coloured rock b<strong>and</strong> on<br />

the crags at the top of the dry valley, which ran into the flats. Ralph <strong>and</strong> I went up to<br />

the old whalers' Pump Hut passing outcrops of the same crystalline limestone. It<br />

stood on the northeast shore of the first of the three freshwater lakes <strong>and</strong> the engines,<br />

which had driven the pumps for the whalers' freshwater supplies some 30 y<strong>ears</strong><br />

earlier, appeared to be in good order. It might even be possible, we speculated, to<br />

use one as an engine for the derelict launch at the whaling station! The 3 inch<br />

galvanized piping which led down to the beach was all rust-free <strong>and</strong> in good order. I<br />

might move into this hut during the seal breeding season so as to be nearer my<br />

expected study area. The weather, which had been growing steadily worse, now<br />

threw a blizzard at us. We pressed on to the second lake, where I found more fairy<br />

shrimps. It was getting late so we walked east to the shore <strong>and</strong> cut across to the bay<br />

where the boat was beached. Derek was there gently ‘tormenting’ elephant seals by<br />

getting them to open their mouths to roar in outrage <strong>and</strong> then gently lobbing small<br />

stones into the bright pink caverns. We hurried back to base in the dory, to get back<br />

in time for the Met Ob.<br />

Next afternoon after the radio schedule we decided to take advantage of<br />

continuing fine weather to get a better view of the isl<strong>and</strong> as a whole by climbing to<br />

the ice cap. We took our ice axes, a 120 ft rope, <strong>and</strong> our snow-goggles <strong>and</strong> went up to<br />

the saddle <strong>and</strong> then southwards along the ridge to Roberts Bluff. This took us well<br />

above the valley leading into Elephant Flats <strong>and</strong> from this high position we saw a<br />

small glacier lake. We scrambled down a steep slope to the moraine fringing the<br />

nevé - it couldn't be termed a glacier - which extended down from the icecap to the<br />

East side of the valley. A swift glacier stream ran down its margin to feed the lake we<br />

had seen from the top <strong>and</strong> we pressed on to a small rock peak of garnet-bearing<br />

rocks, which comm<strong>and</strong>ed this southwest corner of the icecap.<br />

We made height rapidly <strong>and</strong> negotiating several crevasses <strong>and</strong> a bergschrund<br />

reached our first summit, which was unnamed. We sat for a while above a rock face<br />

of some 300 ft which rose up from the ice. While looking at some loose rocks Derek<br />

said he had found a Collembolan: I had a look at it <strong>and</strong> pronounced it a mite – a red<br />

Acarinid, <strong>and</strong> on further examination there turned out to be many more. It was an<br />

interesting find because earlier visitors had not recorded any, so I took some back in<br />

a matchbox. (We named this small peak Mite Peak, but later it became known<br />

officially as Garnet Hill.)<br />

A rock <strong>and</strong> ice ridge ran to the north from this peak (725ft) <strong>and</strong> abutted onto a<br />

snow <strong>and</strong> ice slope leading to Snow Hill (866ft) <strong>and</strong> thence in a horseshoe to Tioga<br />

132

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