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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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plankton hauling on the first two stations, NX <strong>and</strong> N. At each station the ship<br />

was stopped <strong>and</strong> the depth measured. If it was deep enough we sent down two<br />

series of Nansen water bottles to 1200 m - off Greenl<strong>and</strong> we hoped to get down to<br />

3000 m. These bottles have thermometers affixed to them <strong>and</strong> by an ingenious<br />

mechanism, first developed by the Norwegian explorer Nansen, samples of water<br />

are taken at depth intervals. We analyzed the samples for saltiness <strong>and</strong> recorded<br />

the water temperatures. Then we sent down an instrument called a bathythermograph<br />

that drew a graph of the temperatures, down to a depth of l40 m, on<br />

a smoked glass slide. While this was going on two others were making a<br />

plankton haul, sending a special kind of net down to as deep as 600 m <strong>and</strong><br />

hauling it up slowly. This caught plankton (the floating life of the sea - small<br />

shrimps <strong>and</strong> worms, jellyfish, snails <strong>and</strong> minute plant life) <strong>and</strong> the samples were<br />

bottled <strong>and</strong> stored for future examination under a microscope.<br />

Then I helped Arthur until 10.30 pm, when I turned in. The weather had<br />

worsened during the day <strong>and</strong> there were snow squalls, but it cleared in the<br />

evening. It was still light <strong>and</strong> remained so for most of the night.<br />

Next day I was up at 5 am to help Arthur. The ship was heading for station W,<br />

a lowering comprising water bottles, salinity <strong>and</strong> oxygen samples, temperature<br />

<strong>and</strong> bathy-thermograph. We finished in time for breakfast - delicious fried cod.<br />

Then Arthur went to bed <strong>and</strong> I filled in some data, did a little work <strong>and</strong> spent<br />

some time on the bridge with "the skipper". (In addition to the Captain, there<br />

were several trawler skippers aboard, who supervise the trawling operations, not<br />

the running of the ship). He told me that seals, from his description harp seals,<br />

were often caught in the trawls. The weather improved <strong>and</strong> we found ourselves<br />

sailing into the sun. The sea was becoming calmer all the time <strong>and</strong> there were<br />

interesting cloud shapes on the horizon, to relieve the seascapes. We saw a<br />

number of fin <strong>whales</strong> in the mirror-calm sea, blowing <strong>and</strong> splashing; who would<br />

think we were in the Arctic? We worked another station at 9 pm – bathythermograph<br />

<strong>and</strong> plankton hauls. Then the weather deteriorated again.<br />

Next morning it was rougher again <strong>and</strong> I took the bathy-thermograph traces<br />

at stations P <strong>and</strong> L, experiencing trouble with the net acting as a sea anchor for<br />

the whole ship. Glaucous gulls, little gulls, terns <strong>and</strong> fulmars appeared. At about<br />

9.45 pm the isl<strong>and</strong> of Jan Mayen appeared on the radar screen, 19 miles off on<br />

bearing 280°. It was very rough during the night <strong>and</strong> next morning, with an<br />

overcast sky <strong>and</strong> low visibility. We "dodged" about during the night <strong>and</strong> then<br />

sighted the isl<strong>and</strong> at 10 am, first a low cape <strong>and</strong> then higher l<strong>and</strong>, cloud-capped,<br />

but with snow patches visible. Blue sky appeared <strong>and</strong> the clouds cleared<br />

progressively throughout the day, so that we had a very fine view of Beerenberg,<br />

named after a Dutch admiral <strong>and</strong> nearly 8,000 feet high. It had a truncated<br />

volcanic cone covered in snow <strong>and</strong> ice, with glaciers flowing down the sides like<br />

streams of molten white lava. The position <strong>and</strong> size of the moraines now<br />

indicated a great regression of the former icecap. It was an interesting-looking<br />

isl<strong>and</strong>, with strange cliff rock formations, reminiscent of Deception Isl<strong>and</strong> in the<br />

Antarctic. There was a Norwegian weather station on the isl<strong>and</strong> but we saw no<br />

one.<br />

402

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