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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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By the evening of 8 November we had passed through the Channel seeing<br />

Guernsey during the afternoon, <strong>and</strong> were off Ushant at midnight. We would be<br />

crossing the Bay of Biscay next day <strong>and</strong> it was already getting quite rough. At lunch<br />

we had red wine (Medoc) <strong>and</strong> a wonderful Norwegian cake smothered in lovely<br />

cream in three layers with pineapple filling! Unfortunately as the voyage drew on<br />

the food was not to be very interesting. I had been writing most of the time in the lab.<br />

It was very tidy by now <strong>and</strong> no one disturbed me; with luck I would finish the seal<br />

paper but I wanted to get on with it before the tropics - or it might be too hot to work<br />

on it!<br />

Next day at noon we were in the middle of the Bay of Biscay – the sea quite calm<br />

for a large ship like us, but other ships were bucking about. The Balaena was so long<br />

<strong>and</strong> so huge (23,000 tons) that it took a big sea to make her move at all. I walked<br />

about on deck in the afternoons, watching the crew splicing wire strops, making<br />

wooden toggles, painting ship <strong>and</strong> doing other jobs. They also laid the false deck (a<br />

wooden deck that covered the real deck <strong>and</strong> was to protect it from the heavy wear,<br />

<strong>and</strong> staining with blood <strong>and</strong> oil during the whaling season). The crew stowed<br />

harpoons <strong>and</strong> other stores <strong>and</strong> the blacksmith's shop was making equipment. We<br />

had a Leach's fork-tailed storm petrel fly aboard <strong>and</strong> saw a few shearwaters, but the<br />

birds left us later that day. Chris Ash (Chief Chemist) showed Jim Clifton <strong>and</strong> me<br />

around the factory, explaining the working of the various plants: blubber oil, hard<br />

blubber processing, meat oil <strong>and</strong> meat meal <strong>and</strong> the bone plant. It was all very<br />

interesting <strong>and</strong> I was getting used to the sickly sweet smell of the ship.<br />

I had a cable from home saying that I had been awarded my PhD degree <strong>and</strong><br />

threw a little party on the strength of it. Seven of us got through a bottle of gin in<br />

half an hour - it was quite a hard-drinking community. The wardrobe in my cabin<br />

now contained 2 cases of gin <strong>and</strong> 1 of whisky <strong>and</strong> there were two cases of gin under<br />

the washbasin, <strong>and</strong> a bottle presented by the Captain to each of the officers. At dutyfree<br />

prices the spirits were ridiculously cheap - as I recall gin was 8s/6d <strong>and</strong> whisky<br />

10s/6d!<br />

Now is the time to introduce the people I lived with on this long voyage. The<br />

Comm<strong>and</strong>er I have already mentioned. He was a charming old (64yr!). ‘rascal’. Then,<br />

there was Christopher Ash (Chris), the chief chemist – a degree from Cambridge,<br />

about 35yrs <strong>and</strong> a very good chap. Alec Robertson, a little older, was the meat expert<br />

who selected the whale meat suitable for freezing (for pet food). He rejected meat<br />

which had deteriorated since the whale was killed. He had spent six y<strong>ears</strong> at<br />

Smithfield Market in London, came from Newcastle originally <strong>and</strong> drank like the<br />

proverbial fish but could take it - he also knew Portugal well. Richard Sheppard<br />

(Shep) was the radar man <strong>and</strong> chief technician or boffin concerned with all radio,<br />

electrical <strong>and</strong> electronic work <strong>and</strong> projected the films on film nights - but he was<br />

more than a mere technician as we were to discover later in the voyage. Mitchell<br />

(Mitch) was a freezer engineer who provided the cold for freezing meat. He spoke<br />

Norwegian well <strong>and</strong> drank too much, but was a pleasant chap. Ole Ness Jensen -<br />

secretary of Balaena, did all the office work <strong>and</strong> administration <strong>and</strong> was very capable;<br />

he had an English wife. Jim Clifton, the third Chemist with whom I was sharing a<br />

cabin was not as insufferable as I had thought at first but still a bit of a nuisance.<br />

Captain Virik was a very good sort, a bit reticent but friendly; he served in the Royal<br />

Navy during the war, as did many of the Norwegians, <strong>and</strong> had an English wife.<br />

432

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