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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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some of the roofing-felt on the lab so I nailed matchboarding in place to minimize<br />

further damage - a very cold job in the wind. Now that the wind had dropped it was<br />

warmer in the hut, but I lit the hurricane lamp in the lab in order to keep the<br />

temperature a little above that outside.<br />

A week later saw a very sudden drop in temperature - to -12.9°C that evening.<br />

We woke to a moderately calm day with gusts of wind <strong>and</strong> snow flurries. The sun<br />

shone intermittently for 1.6 hrs in all. The temperature next morning was -3°C <strong>and</strong> it<br />

fell steadily throughout the day, which was windy with flurries of wind-blown snow<br />

to make it unpleasant. We saw that the pack to the south was very solid with only a<br />

few narrow leads; there were many medium-sized bergs. Around the east coast was<br />

a lane of open water between the pack <strong>and</strong> the as yet unconsolidated bay ice.<br />

Elephant Flats was well frozen over now <strong>and</strong> we thought it should be weightbearing.<br />

Winter l948. These large fluctuations in the weather ended abruptly in mid- May as<br />

the temperatures plummeted, due to the dense sea ice now enveloping us <strong>and</strong> the<br />

shift of depressions northwards. The temperature was down to -11.3°C that morning;<br />

at midday it was -16C° <strong>and</strong> at 8 o’clock we registered our lowest minus temperature<br />

yet, -20.4°C. We had entered a new seasonal phase <strong>and</strong> our bodies had to adapt to it<br />

by acclimatizing again. A blizzard was blowing outside <strong>and</strong> it was not inviting. Our<br />

little hut was now very cold <strong>and</strong> we huddled close to the fire: the temperature at<br />

floor level was well below freezing. The sea was quite frozen over with no open<br />

water. It continued to get colder. On the morning of 14 May it was -18.9°C, rose to -<br />

16.5°C at noon <strong>and</strong> fell again to - 22.3°C that evening. The bay ice was now weightbearing<br />

<strong>and</strong> what had been until recently an open lead between it <strong>and</strong> the pack was<br />

frozen over <strong>and</strong> patterned with lovely delicate frost flowers. Next morning the<br />

temperature was -22°C <strong>and</strong> remained so throughout the day.<br />

The sea was all frozen over now as far as the eye could see. The consolidated pack<br />

was to south <strong>and</strong> east <strong>and</strong> half-filling Normanna Strait; then an area of dark new ice<br />

which was the last to freeze over; <strong>and</strong> around the coast a fringe of ice of 4-5 in<br />

thickness <strong>and</strong> varying width. This younger ice bore our weight now but at the shore<br />

there were tide-cracks <strong>and</strong> loose blocks in open water. It was still not really safe for<br />

travel. I remembered that a safe thickness in Greenl<strong>and</strong> was considered to be 5 inches<br />

but we would wait a few more days before we measured out the baseline for survey<br />

triangulation.<br />

The daily pattern continued, with temperatures in the mornings below -20°C,<br />

rising during the day to -18° or even - 10°C. The ice was covered with beautiful frost<br />

flowers formed of radiating platelets which reflected the light from their faces. We<br />

w<strong>and</strong>ered up <strong>and</strong> down on the ice <strong>and</strong> chopped a hole in it to determine its<br />

thickness; it was just about 5 inches deep. There was no change in the general ice<br />

picture, but the larger growlers <strong>and</strong> bergy bits were surrounded with open water <strong>and</strong><br />

rotten ice where the tides had prevented consolidation.<br />

On a typical day at this time Coronation Isl<strong>and</strong> was often very clear at daybreak<br />

but clouded over during the day <strong>and</strong> was again clear at sunset. Usually after the 3.0<br />

pm Ob. it was silhouetted against a dark blue-black sky, the peaks of the ridge a cold<br />

matt-white broken only by the black of rock exposures. Over parts were subtle bluepurple<br />

tints, <strong>and</strong> Mount Noble, peering over the white curtain of the nearer ridge,<br />

178

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