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Part I: Seals teeth and whales ears - Scott Polar Research Institute ...

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accessible. We had breakfast <strong>and</strong> loaded the dory with tent, sleeping bags <strong>and</strong> food<br />

etc. in case the sea changed <strong>and</strong> a stay on the other side was necessary. As we were<br />

about to launch the boat the day suddenly changed <strong>and</strong> within ten minutes - no more<br />

- the wind had turned to the north <strong>and</strong> had whipped up the sea into white horses. At<br />

the same time cloud began to pour south over the cols on Coronation Isl<strong>and</strong>, where it<br />

tended to bank up on the heavily iced north coast, <strong>and</strong> the peaks were soon shrouded<br />

in cloud. Of course with the country under cloud there was not much point crossing<br />

over, as one objective was to carry on the survey <strong>and</strong> there wasn't much future in<br />

that if one couldn't see anything! We decided to give it an hour to change, but it<br />

worsened so rapidly that it was obvious our plans would have to be cancelled. The<br />

day remained changeable with variable mists, a frequent rumble of avalanches from<br />

Coronation Isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> calving ice cliffs <strong>and</strong> bergs. Wave Peak looked very remote<br />

when it appeared above a layer of mist. There was much more rock showing than<br />

ever before.<br />

Autumn l949. We were into autumn now. By mid-March the horizon to the south was<br />

open water <strong>and</strong> next day a violent storm hit us. More foul weather arrived, with<br />

blizzards, <strong>and</strong> on 1 April the temperature was only -10°C, but rose during the day to<br />

-7°C. We awoke to fitful gleams of sunshine but when the morning mists dispersed<br />

the sun shined brightly until about 6.30 pm. Next day began with the temperature at<br />

about -14°C <strong>and</strong> it steadily fell by a couple of degrees. This was well below the mean<br />

temperature for April <strong>and</strong> only a few degrees higher than the absolute April<br />

minimum for the South Orkneys - <strong>and</strong> it was only the second day of the month!<br />

Associated with the low temperature was a wind <strong>and</strong> frequent snowfalls.<br />

The temperature was up slightly next morning <strong>and</strong> a snowfall overnight had<br />

added 2 ins to the drifts; it remained cold throughout the day <strong>and</strong> a strong wind<br />

whipped up the snow. On 4 April it was fairly warm -7°C. A strong wind blew all<br />

day with snow <strong>and</strong> occasional hailstorms. The hut was very cold, with frost crystals<br />

growing on the floor; what was it going to be like in the coming winter? But then<br />

next day, the temperature was -3°C <strong>and</strong> rose during the day by 2 degrees; the wind<br />

strong in the morning, dropped <strong>and</strong> there were several hours of calm. Pack ice<br />

lurked off the southeast corner of the isl<strong>and</strong>.<br />

Two days later was poor, although good in comparison with the recent weather,<br />

but the barometer suddenly dropped <strong>and</strong> a strong wind came, bringing with it heavy<br />

snow <strong>and</strong> whipping up the sea. We had freezing rain next morning with temperature<br />

at -1°C, succeeded by a sudden drop in temperature <strong>and</strong> blinding snow - another<br />

cold front had arrived! The day remained poor <strong>and</strong> the temperature fell to -10.5°C<br />

with a further fall in temperature overnight <strong>and</strong> some new snow. The pack was<br />

moving in under the influence of a southerly wind, <strong>and</strong> that night it was about<br />

halfway between Signy <strong>and</strong> the Robertson Isl<strong>and</strong>s; it was solid all the way to the<br />

horizon. On 9 April the day warmed to freezing point but, with the passage of a cold<br />

front, the pen arm of the thermograph dropped vertically for several degrees. It<br />

eased off a little <strong>and</strong> ended that night at -13.2°C. A blizzard blew throughout the day,<br />

with the wind remarkably constant around 40 mph.<br />

Winter l949 10 April introduced more wintry conditions; a fine day with young ice<br />

covering most of the bay <strong>and</strong> the surrounding hills mirrored in the open<br />

187

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