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7.2 Manual transmission
case and planetary gears, thus driving the sun
gears and driveshafts. The rotation of the
planetary gears on their shaft allows the inner
roadwheel to rotate at a slower speed than
the outer roadwheel during cornering.
5 Transmission fluid drain and filler plugs are
provided, and a magnetic swarf collector is
located in the bottom of the transmission
casing.
6 When overhauling the transmission, due
consideration should be given to the costs
involved, since it is often more economical to
obtain a service exchange or good
secondhand transmission rather than fit new
parts to the existing transmission.
7 This Chapter covers the 084 4-speed and
085 5-speed transmissions.
Manual transmission overhaul -
genera/ information
8 The overhaul of a manual transmission is a
complex (and often expensive) engineering
task for the DIY home mechanic to undertake,
which requires access to specialist
equipment. It involves the dismantling and
reassembly of many small components, the
precise measurement of clearances and if
necessary, adjustment by the selection shims
and spacers. Internal transmission
components are also often difficult to obtain
and in many instances, extremely expensive.
Because of this, if the transmission develops
a fault or becomes noisy, the best course of
action is to have the unit overhauled by a
specialist repairer or to obtain an exchange,
reconditioned unit.
9 Nevertheless, it is not impossible for the
more experienced mechanic to overhaul the
transmission if the special tools are available
and the job is carried out in a deliberate stepby-step
manner, to ensure that nothing is
overlooked.
10 The tools necessary for an overhaul
include internal and external circlip pliers,
bearing pullers, a slide hammer, a set of pin
punches, a dial test indicator and possibly a
hydraulic press. In addition, a large, sturdy
workbench and a vice will be required.
11 During dismantling of the transmission,
make careful notes of how each component is
fitted to make reassembly easier and
accurate.
12 Before dismantling the transmission, it will
help if you have some idea of where the
problem lies. Certain problems can be closely
related to specific areas in the transmission
which can make component examination and
renewal easier. Refer to “Fault finding” at the
end of this manual for more information.
Note: The following paragraphs describe how
to remove the transmission leaving the engine
in situ. However, if work is necessary on the
engine as well, the engine and transmission
can be removed as one unit then separated on
the bench as described in Chapter 2B.
Removal
1 The engine must be supported before the
transmission can be removed and it is
recommended that a hoist or lifting beam is
used. As the transmission is removed from
underneath the engine bay, first jack up the
front of the car and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”),
then apply the handbrake.Take the weight of
the engine with the hoist or lifting beam.
2 Remove the air cleaner/throttle body
ducting as described in Chapter 4A or B as
applicable.
3 Disconnect the battery negative cable and
position it away from the terminal.
4 Remove the windscreen washer bottle (see
Chapter 12) and place it to one side.
5 Disconnect the clutch cable from the
transmission with reference to Chapter 6.
6 Unscrew and remove the engine to
transmission bolts that can be reached from
the top of the transmission.
7 Remove the starter motor with reference to
Chapter 5A.
8 Loosen the clip securing the support
bracket to the coolant pipe at the rear of the
engine, remove the upper starter bolt if
necessary, and move the bracket away from
the transmission (see illustration).
9 Remove the left-hand front engine
mounting bracket by unscrewing the nuts
securing it to the transmission, removing the
mounting bolt, and removing the bolt securing
the earth strap.
10 Working beneath the car, unbolt and
remove the cover plate from the clutch
housing (see illustration).
11 Disconnect the wiring from the reversing
light switch (see illustration)
12 Disconnect the inner ends of the
driveshafts from the transmission flanges with
reference to Chapter 8 and tie them out of the
way.
13 Refer to Chapter 12 and unscrew the
collar and disconnect the speedometer cable
from the transmission.
14 Unscrew and remove the remaining
engine to transmission bolts noting the
location of the rear mounting bracket (see
illustrations)
15 Unscrew the rear mounting nut and
remove the bracket, or leave the mounting on
the bracket and remove the mounting bolts
(see illustration).
2.8 Coolant pipe support bracket location 2.10 Clutch housing cover plate
2.11 Reversing light switch (at-rowed) 2.14a Engine rear mounting bracket 2.14b Removing the rear mounting
bracket bolts