Contents - Volkspage

10.4 Suspension and steering
Note: VW tool 40-201 B is necessary in order
to unscrew the screw cap from the top of the
strut.
1 A faulty shock absorber will normally make
a knocking noise as the car is driven over
rough surfaces.
2 To remove the shock absorber first remove
the front coil spring as described in Section 3.
3 Using VW tool 40-201 B unscrew the screw
cap from the top of the strut and remove the
piston rod guide and seal. If necessary first
mount the strut in a vice.
4 Pull the shock absorber out of the strut then
pour the remaining fluid out and discard it.
Clean the inside of the strut with paraffin and
wipe dry.
5 Replacement shock absorbers are supplied
as dry type cartridges, the wet type are only
fitted by the factory when new.
6 With the new shock absorber upright,
operate it fully several times and check that
the resistance is even without any tight spots.
7 Insert the shock absorber in the strut and fit
the guide together with a new seal.
8 Fit the screw cap and tighten it to the
specified torque.
9 Refit the coil spring as described in Section
3.
Testing
1 Jack up the front of the car and support on
axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”). With neutral selected, spin the
wheel. A rumbling noise will be evident if the
bearings are worn and excessive play will be
apparent when the wheel is rocked, however
check that the lower balljoint is not
responsible for the play.
Renewal
2 To renew the wheel bearings first remove
the suspension strut as described in Section
2.
3 Support the outside of the strut, then using
a suitable metal tube, drive the hub from the
wheel bearing. The outer bearing race will be
forced from the bearing during this procedure
and therefore it is not possible to re-use the
bearing.
4 Mount the hub in a vice and use a suitable
puller to remove the race (see illustration).
5 Extract the circlips then support the strut
again and use a suitable metal tube to drive
out the wheel bearing.
6 Clean the inside of the bearing housing in
the strut.
7 Fit the outer circlip to the strut.
5.4 Using a puller to remove the outer
wheel bearing race from the hub
8 Support the strut then smear a little grease
on the bearing contact surfaces and drive in
the bearing using a metal tube on the outer
race only. Fit the inner circlip.
9 Place the hub upright on the bench and
smear a little grease on the bearing contact
area.
10 Locate the strut horizontally on the hub,
then using a metal tube on the bearing inner
race drive the bearing fully onto the hub.
11 Refit the suspension strut as described in
Section 2.
Removal
1 Jack up the front of the car and support on
axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”). Apply the handbrake and remove
the roadwheel.
2 Unscrew the clamp bolt securing the
control arm balljoint to the strut. Press the
control arm down from the strut. Note that the
bolt head faces forward.
3 Unscrew the nut and remove the bolt from
the inner end of the control arm. Note that the
bolt head faces forward, and also mark its
position on the bracket.
4 Press the control arm down from the
bracket, then unscrew the nut from the end of
the anti-roll bar and pull off the control arm.
5 If the balljoint is worn excessively, renew
the complete control arm. Check the
condition of the bushes and if necessary
press them out using a metal tube, nut and
bolt, and washers. Fit the new bushes using
the same method, but first dip them in soapy
water. Note: On G40 models the inner end of
the track control arm is attached to the
underbody by a fully enclosed ball joint which
cannot be renewed separately.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but delay
fully tightening the inner pivot bolt and the
anti-roll bar nut until the full weight of the car
is on the roadwheels. Note that where camber
angle adjustment has been made, the bolt
Removal
1 Jack up the front of the car and support
with axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”). Remove both wheels and apply the
handbrake.
2 Note that with the anti-roll bar correctly
fitted, the bend in the front of the bar faces
upwards.
3 Unscrew the bolts and remove the
mounting clamps securing the front of the bar
to the underbody bracket (see illustration).
4 Unscrew and remove the nuts and washers
from the ends of the anti-roll bar.
5 Pull the anti-roll bar from the control arms
and withdraw it from under the car. If difficulty
is experienced, temporarily jack up the control
arms to give a little extra width for the removal
of the bar.
6 Check the bar and rubber bushes for wear
and deterioration and renew as necessary. If
the bush in the control arm is worn, renew it
with reference to Section 6. Note: The bushes
fitted to the G40 model are harder than those
fitted to other models.
Refitting
7.3 Top view of the anti-roll bar
front mounting bracket
(engine removed from car)
hole in the bracket may have been elongated
and in this case it is imperative that the
special bush and bolt are refitted in their
original position otherwise the adjustment will
have to be repeated.
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but delay
fully tightening the nuts and bolts until the full
weight of the car is on the roadwheels. The
bend in the front section of the bar must face
upwards. Note that the castor angle is
determined by the position of the control arms
on the anti-roll bar, therefore any adjustment
washers should be refitted in their original
locations.