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2B.4 Engine removal and overhaul procedures<br />

2.24 Separating the engine and<br />

transmission<br />

vehicle specification. Note that some of these<br />

fixings also serve as mountings for the rear<br />

engine mounting.<br />

24 Starting at the bottom, remove all the<br />

screws and nuts then carefully draw the<br />

transmission away from the engine, resting it<br />

securely on wooden blocks (see illustration).<br />

Collect the locating dowels if they are loose<br />

enough to be extracted.<br />

Caution: Take care to prevent the<br />

transmission from tilting, until the input<br />

shaft is fully disengaged from the clutch<br />

friction plate.<br />

25 With reference to Chapter 6, remove the<br />

clutch release mechanism, pressure plate and<br />

friction plate.<br />

Refitting<br />

26 If the engine and transmission have not<br />

been separated, proceed from paragraph 29<br />

onwards.<br />

27 Smear a quantity of high-melting-point<br />

grease on the splines of the transmission<br />

input shaft. Do not use an excessive amount<br />

as there is the risk of contaminating the clutch<br />

friction plate. Carefully offer up the<br />

transmission to the cylinder block, guiding the<br />

dowels into the mounting holes in cylinder<br />

block.<br />

28 Refit the bellhousing bolts and nuts, hand<br />

tightening them to secure the transmission in<br />

position. Note: Do not tighten them to force<br />

the engine and transmission together. Ensure<br />

that the bellhousing and cylinder block mating<br />

faces will butt together evenly without<br />

obstruction, before tightening the bolts and<br />

nuts to their specified torque.<br />

All models<br />

29 With reference to Chapter 2A, refit the<br />

rear engine mounting bracket and tighten the<br />

retaining bolts to the specified torque.<br />

30 Attach the jib of an engine hoist to the<br />

lifting eyelets on the cylinder head and raise<br />

the engine and transmission from the ground.<br />

31 Wheel the hoist up to the front of the<br />

vehicle and with the help of an assistant,<br />

guide the engine and transmission in through<br />

the top of the engine bay. Tilt the assembly<br />

slightly so that the transmission casing enters<br />

first, then guide the auxiliary belt drive pulleys<br />

past the bodywork.<br />

32 Align the engine mounting brackets with<br />

the mounting points on the body - refer to<br />

Chapter 2A for details. Insert the engine<br />

mounting through-bolts, tightening them by<br />

hand initially.<br />

33 Detach the engine hoist jib from the lifting<br />

eyelets.<br />

34 Settle the engine and transmission<br />

assembly on its mountings by rocking it<br />

backwards and forwards, then tighten the<br />

mounting through-bolts to the specified<br />

torque.<br />

35 Refer to Chapter 8 and reconnect the<br />

driveshafts to the transmission.<br />

36 The remainder of the refitting sequence is<br />

the direct reverse of the removal procedure,<br />

noting the following points:<br />

a) Ensure that all sections of the wiring<br />

harness follow their original routing; use<br />

new cable-ties to secure the harness in<br />

position, keeping it away from sources of<br />

heat and abrasion.<br />

b) Refer to Chapter 7 and reconnect the<br />

gear shift mechanism to the transmission,<br />

then check the overall operation of the<br />

gear shift mechanism, adjusting it if<br />

necessary.<br />

c) Refer to Chapter 6 and reconnect the<br />

clutch cable to the transmission, then<br />

check the operation of the automatic<br />

adjustment mechanism (where<br />

applicable).<br />

d) Ensure that all hoses are correctly routed<br />

and are secured with the correct hose<br />

clips, where applicable. If the hose clips<br />

originally fitted were of the crimp variety,<br />

they cannot be used again; proprietary<br />

worm drive clips must be fitted in their<br />

place, unless otherwise specified.<br />

e) Refill the cooling system as described in<br />

Chapter 1.<br />

f) Refill the engine with appropriate grades<br />

and quantities of oil, as detailed in<br />

Chapter 1.<br />

g) With reference to Chapter 4A or B as<br />

applicable, reconnect the throttle cable<br />

and adjust it as necessary.<br />

h) With reference to Chapter 5B, check and<br />

adjust the engine idle speed and where<br />

applicable, the ignition timing.<br />

37 When the engine is stat-ted for the first<br />

time , check for air, coolant, lubricant and<br />

fuel leaks from manifolds, hoses etc. If the<br />

engine has been overhauled, read the<br />

cautionary notes in Section 13 before<br />

attempting to start it.<br />

1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on<br />

the engine if it is mounted on a portable<br />

engine stand. These stands can often be hired<br />

from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is<br />

mounted on a stand, the flywheel should be<br />

removed, so that the stand bolts can be<br />

tightened into the end of the cylinder block/<br />

crankcase.<br />

2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to<br />

dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a<br />

sturdy workbench, or on the floor. Be very<br />

careful not to tip or drop the engine when<br />

working without a stand.<br />

3 If you intend to obtain a reconditioned<br />

engine, all ancillaries must be removed first, to<br />

be transferred to the replacement engine (just<br />

as they will if you are doing a complete engine<br />

overhaul yourself). These components include<br />

the following:<br />

a) Alternator (including mounting brackets)<br />

and starter motor (Chapter 5A).<br />

b) The ignition system and HT components<br />

including all sensors, distributor, HT leads<br />

and spark plugs (Chapters 1 and 5).<br />

c) The fuel injection system components<br />

(Chapter 4 Parts A and B)<br />

d) All electrical switches, actuators and<br />

sensors, and the engine wiring harness<br />

(Chapter 4 Parts A and B, Chapter 5B).<br />

e) inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapter 2A).<br />

f) The engine oil level dipstick (Chapter 1)<br />

g) Engine mountings (Chapter 2A and B).<br />

h) Flywheel (Chapter 28)<br />

i) Clutch components (Chapter 6)<br />

Note: When removing the external<br />

components from the engine, pay close<br />

attention to details that may be helpful or<br />

important during refitting. Note the fitted<br />

position of gaskets, seals, spacers, pins,<br />

washers, bolts, and other small components.<br />

4 If you are obtaining a “short” engine (which<br />

consists of the engine cylinder block/<br />

crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and<br />

connecting rods, all fully assembled), then the<br />

cylinder head, sump and baffle plate, oil<br />

pump, timing belt (together with its tensioner<br />

and covers), auxiliary belt (together with its<br />

tensioner), coolant pump, thermostat housing,<br />

coolant outlet elbows, oil filter housing and<br />

where applicable oil cooler will also have to be<br />

removed.<br />

5 If you are planning a complete overhaul, the<br />

engine can be dismantled in the order given<br />

below:<br />

a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds.<br />

b) Timing be/t, sprockets and tensioner.<br />

c) Cylinder head.<br />

d) Flywheel driveplate.<br />

e) Sump.<br />

f) Oil pump.<br />

g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies.<br />

h) Crankshaft.<br />

6 Before beginning the dismantling and<br />

overhaul procedures, make sure that you have<br />

all of the tools necessary. Refer to “Tools and<br />

working facilities” in the Reference Section of<br />

this manual for further information.

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