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Reflections on the Human Condition - Api-fellowships.org

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legend is unlikely to achieve similar prominence in<br />

Phuket. Never<strong>the</strong>less, it has <strong>the</strong> potential of becoming<br />

an identifying legend for <strong>the</strong> larger Thai Muslim<br />

community in Phuket—in tourism literature, at least.<br />

And as Phuket still lacks any m<strong>on</strong>ument representing<br />

Thai Muslim heritage, <strong>the</strong> proposed Mahsuri Museum—most<br />

likely located in <strong>the</strong> vicinity of FantaSea—is<br />

likely to become <strong>the</strong> island’s main Thai Muslim cultural<br />

attracti<strong>on</strong>.<br />

The Mahsuri legend is an asset to <strong>the</strong> Thai Muslims<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Phuket tourism industry. The romantic story<br />

of Mahsuri, a beautiful woman, a victim of slander and<br />

injustice, draws <strong>the</strong> sympathy of its audience—whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Muslims, Buddhists or foreigners. It shows a different<br />

face of <strong>the</strong> Thai Muslims, completely in c<strong>on</strong>trast to <strong>the</strong><br />

hard stereotype of Islamic militants that has been blown<br />

up in <strong>the</strong> media after 9/11 and that is now associated<br />

with <strong>the</strong> c<strong>on</strong>flict in Sou<strong>the</strong>rn Thailand.<br />

HALAL FOOD, HILAL TOWN<br />

The Halal Food, Hilal Town Festival menti<strong>on</strong>ed earlier<br />

was publicized by <strong>the</strong> Tourism Authority of Thailand<br />

thus: “To promote greater awareness of <strong>the</strong> island’s<br />

cultural diversity and rich cultural heritage, <strong>the</strong> Phuket<br />

Provincial Administrati<strong>on</strong> Organizati<strong>on</strong> presents ‘Halal<br />

Food Hilal Town’—a cultural showcase of Thai-Muslim<br />

art and culture, customs and traditi<strong>on</strong>s, folklore and<br />

way of life.”<br />

Held in Kamala from July 28 to August 1, 2005, <strong>the</strong><br />

festival opened with <strong>the</strong> release of 39 doves symbolizing<br />

<strong>the</strong> wish for peace in <strong>the</strong> South. The main draw of <strong>the</strong><br />

festival was a food fair offering “delicious halal food<br />

prepared <strong>the</strong> Muslim way”. The festival offered <strong>the</strong> rare<br />

opportunity to see a whole range of Muslim and Malay<br />

performing arts such as Likay Ulu, a Thai versi<strong>on</strong> of<br />

Dhikir Barat presented by <strong>the</strong> Kempulan Bungayaran<br />

from Pattani, Silat Gay<strong>on</strong>g from Krabi, and Wayang<br />

Kulit from Nakh<strong>on</strong> Si Thammarat. R<strong>on</strong>ggeng was performed<br />

by a group of mature Orang Laut women from Koh<br />

Sirey; and lekia (Malay) or khun ple (Thai), a supplicati<strong>on</strong><br />

accompanied by drumming for m<strong>on</strong>th-old infants, was<br />

performed by a group of elderly men from Bang Tao—<br />

<strong>the</strong> last of Phuket’s Lekia groups.<br />

“Islamic culture is not <strong>on</strong>ly Arabic, we have our own<br />

traditi<strong>on</strong>al Thai Muslim culture”, said Khun Charoen<br />

Thinkohkeow, Muslim advisor to <strong>the</strong> provincial<br />

government who was mainly resp<strong>on</strong>sible for sourcing<br />

<strong>the</strong> wide range of groups for <strong>the</strong> festival. Khun Charoen<br />

is also <strong>the</strong> broadcaster of city radio FM 94 and advisor<br />

of Phuket’s Muslim Wittaya School.<br />

HERITAGE, IDENTITY, CHANGE AND CONFLICT<br />

As for <strong>the</strong> Islamic groups that performed at <strong>the</strong> festival,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y are not linked to South Thailand at all; but to<br />

Malaysia. The nasyid [an Islamic-oriented s<strong>on</strong>g] girls<br />

and kompang [a shallow frame drum] boys from Islam<br />

Phattanah were from <strong>the</strong> “Thai branch of Malaysian<br />

Mawaddah”. The latter is a subsidiary Rufaqa, <strong>the</strong><br />

reformed and rec<strong>on</strong>stituted corporati<strong>on</strong> of <strong>the</strong> Al-<br />

Arqam group that was previously banned by <strong>the</strong><br />

Malaysian government.<br />

The festival was given an allocati<strong>on</strong> of five to six milli<strong>on</strong><br />

Thai baht by <strong>the</strong> Phuket Provincial Government, whose<br />

chief executive, Khun Anchalee, articulated <strong>the</strong> festival’s<br />

objectives—to aid in Kamala’s recovery, to open up <strong>the</strong><br />

Middle Eastern tourism market and to show <strong>the</strong> world<br />

that <strong>the</strong> Thai-Muslims can live peacefully with <strong>the</strong> Thai-<br />

Buddhists and foreign nati<strong>on</strong>alities.<br />

The Halal Food Festival would work towards resolving<br />

<strong>the</strong> food issue. “Middle Eastern tourists doubt whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Phuket halal food is really halal or mashbooh<br />

(questi<strong>on</strong>able),” explained Khun Charoen. The Halal<br />

Science Center of Chulal<strong>on</strong>gkorn University was called<br />

in to train <strong>the</strong> food providers. Presumably, if <strong>the</strong> Arabs<br />

could be satisfied, o<strong>the</strong>r Muslim tourists like Malaysians<br />

and Ind<strong>on</strong>esians would have c<strong>on</strong>fidence in Phuket’s<br />

halal credentials as well.<br />

Apart from <strong>the</strong> professed justificati<strong>on</strong>s for <strong>the</strong> festival,<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r things were going <strong>on</strong>. The festival was declared<br />

open by <strong>the</strong> Privy Councillor General Surayud Chulan<strong>on</strong>t.<br />

Organized with <strong>the</strong> machinery of <strong>the</strong> Democratc<strong>on</strong>trolled<br />

provincial government, The Halal Festival<br />

provided a forum for Democrat leaders, including<br />

former Prime Minister of Thailand and Khun Su<strong>the</strong>p<br />

Tuaksubhand, Secretary-General of <strong>the</strong> Democrat Party<br />

and MP of Suratthani, to address a predominantly<br />

Muslim audience who came from all over <strong>the</strong> South.<br />

Hailing from Trang, <strong>the</strong> veteran Democrat leader<br />

Leekpai has been called “<strong>the</strong> political idol of Sou<strong>the</strong>rners”.<br />

Speaking at <strong>the</strong> festival, Leekpai was generally critical<br />

of his Thaksin’s hardline policies which have led to<br />

deteriorating Muslim-Buddhist relati<strong>on</strong>s in <strong>the</strong> South.<br />

He menti<strong>on</strong>ed having recently visited a wat in Kelantan<br />

where ethnic Thai Buddhists told him that <strong>the</strong>y had no<br />

problems with <strong>the</strong> Malay Muslims in Malaysia. This<br />

was a message for <strong>the</strong> Muslim South; not for <strong>the</strong> no-show<br />

Middle Eastern tourists.<br />

The Thai Muslims of Phuket face identity questi<strong>on</strong>s as<br />

a minority in a majority Buddhist nati<strong>on</strong>, as a Thai-speaking<br />

minority in a regi<strong>on</strong> where most Muslims speak<br />

Ref lecti<strong>on</strong>s <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Human</strong> C<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>: Change, C<strong>on</strong>flict and Modernity<br />

The Work of <strong>the</strong> 2004/2005 API Fellows<br />

29

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