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Reflections on the Human Condition - Api-fellowships.org

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KHAW SIM BEE AND MODERN PHUKET<br />

In <strong>the</strong> movement to revive <strong>the</strong> old town, a c<strong>on</strong>siderable<br />

amount of Thai-language materials which promote<br />

Phuket town’s Sino-Portuguese architecture and Baba<br />

heritage, are being produced. These materials are targeted<br />

at Thais and Sino-Thais in particular. Khaw Sim Bee is<br />

prominently featured as <strong>the</strong> founder of <strong>the</strong> old town and <strong>the</strong><br />

official picture of this portly gentleman with decorati<strong>on</strong>s<br />

from <strong>the</strong> King is usually shown. Prince Damr<strong>on</strong>g’s<br />

historical narratives featuring Khaw Sim Bee as <strong>on</strong>e of<br />

<strong>the</strong> “great pers<strong>on</strong>alities” of Thailand helps readers make <strong>the</strong><br />

link with Thai history. A Thai guidebook summarizes his<br />

pers<strong>on</strong>ality as “an exemplary administrator who steered<br />

Phuket toward prosperity”.<br />

Khaw Sim Bee is upheld as a Renaissance man and a<br />

role model for Phuket people in <strong>the</strong> era of tourism and<br />

globlizati<strong>on</strong>. As Chaiyos Prindabrab, editor of Phuket<br />

Bulletin put it, “Khaw Sim Bee was an overseas Chinese,<br />

yet he knew how to make <strong>the</strong> Siamese King, <strong>the</strong> foreigner,<br />

and his own people happy. He managed to draw power<br />

from Bangkok, technology and capital from <strong>the</strong><br />

foreigner, and hard work from <strong>the</strong> Chinese—<strong>the</strong> best<br />

of Thai, European and Chinese culture is a very str<strong>on</strong>g<br />

combinati<strong>on</strong> indeed to lay <strong>the</strong> foundati<strong>on</strong> of Phuket”.<br />

Chaiyos is promoting Khaw Sim Bee as a local hero because<br />

“without a local hero, <strong>the</strong> city will not awaken”.<br />

PHUKET, PENANG AND BANGKOK<br />

The year 1913, when Khaw Sim Bee died, was <strong>the</strong> year<br />

when <strong>the</strong> Chinese in Thailand had to register Thai<br />

names. Initially, many local-born Baba still registered<br />

<strong>the</strong>mselves as Chinese to avoid c<strong>on</strong>scripti<strong>on</strong> as Siamese<br />

into <strong>the</strong> police force.<br />

Tin-mining in Phuket was in <strong>the</strong> hands of <strong>the</strong><br />

Hokkien Chinese. The wealthiest of <strong>the</strong>m earned titles<br />

for public c<strong>on</strong>tributi<strong>on</strong>s such as temples, schools and<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r public infrastructure. Most Phuket aristocrats of<br />

that period were Hokkien Chinese who happened to<br />

have <strong>the</strong> surname Tan. The Phuket “aristocracy” was<br />

sealed after <strong>the</strong> 1933 c<strong>on</strong>stituti<strong>on</strong>al reforms.<br />

Unlike <strong>the</strong> Teochew jao sua or prominent merchant<br />

families in Bangkok, <strong>the</strong>y did not intermarry with Thai<br />

nobles and hardly cultivated Thai-style cultural<br />

refinements. Instead, <strong>the</strong>y built lavish villas around<br />

Phuket town and styled <strong>the</strong>mselves in a Western fashi<strong>on</strong>,<br />

like <strong>the</strong>ir cousins in Penang. Their children were<br />

flamboyant in a modern way. To quote Pranee<br />

Sakulpipatana, “If you read Thai novels, <strong>the</strong> hero of <strong>the</strong><br />

story is usually a Thai noble or a rich Phuket tin-miner’s<br />

s<strong>on</strong> with a flashy lifestyle.”<br />

HERITAGE, IDENTITY, CHANGE AND CONFLICT<br />

The source of Phuket’s modernity was Penang. Due to<br />

relatively shorter travelling distances, <strong>the</strong> development of<br />

Phuket was more str<strong>on</strong>gly influenced by Penang than by<br />

Bangkok. Land travel even to Haadyai was discouraged<br />

by bad roads through bandit-ridden country. About<br />

fifty years ago, Phuket people still preferred to take<br />

a steamship to Penang in order to get <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> train to<br />

Bangkok; Penang was Phuket’s gateway to <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

Phuket Chinese c<strong>on</strong>tinually renewed <strong>the</strong>ir cultural<br />

relati<strong>on</strong>ship to Penang through arranged marriages<br />

with Penang families and by sending <strong>the</strong>ir children<br />

to schools like St. Xavier’s Instituti<strong>on</strong>, C<strong>on</strong>vent Light<br />

Street and Chung Ling in Penang. Phuket businessmen<br />

frequently went to Penang <strong>on</strong> business trips while <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

wives indulged in shopping sprees at <strong>the</strong> department<br />

store “Whiteaways”.<br />

Phuket sent tin and rubber to Penang for re-export<br />

while importing machinery, spare parts and c<strong>on</strong>sumer<br />

items. This relati<strong>on</strong>ship lasted until Penang lost its free<br />

port status in 1969; at that time Phuket’s c<strong>on</strong>necti<strong>on</strong>s<br />

with Bangkok were well-established. The last<br />

manifestati<strong>on</strong> of <strong>the</strong> old relati<strong>on</strong>ship is <strong>the</strong> Nganthawee<br />

family business empire which straddles Penang and<br />

Phuket. (W<strong>on</strong>g, 2003)<br />

During and immediately after <strong>the</strong> war, Thai Teochew<br />

merchants took <strong>the</strong> opportunity to extend <strong>the</strong>ir trading<br />

networks into <strong>the</strong> south.<br />

State tolerance of Chinese culture was often measured<br />

by its policy towards Chinese language educati<strong>on</strong>. Hua<br />

Bo<strong>on</strong>, a Chinese school established in 1911, was <strong>the</strong><br />

precursor of Thai Hua School, <strong>the</strong> oldest Chinese school<br />

in Thailand today. Mandarin and Thai language were<br />

taught using <strong>the</strong> Hokkien vernacular as <strong>the</strong> medium<br />

of instructi<strong>on</strong>. Hua Bo<strong>on</strong> was forced to close down in<br />

1942 but later re-emerged as Ch<strong>on</strong>g Hwa, amalgamating<br />

two o<strong>the</strong>r local Chinese schools, Se<strong>on</strong>g Teik and Yok<br />

Eng. Around 1953, to appease Thai fears of <strong>the</strong> spread<br />

of Communism, <strong>the</strong> school was forced to change its<br />

name to Thai Hua School to dem<strong>on</strong>strate <strong>the</strong>ir loyalty<br />

to Thailand.<br />

Chinese migrati<strong>on</strong> to Thailand ceased in 1949 and <strong>the</strong><br />

tin-mining labor force was filled by Isan people from<br />

<strong>the</strong> poverty-stricken north eastern regi<strong>on</strong> of Thailand.<br />

Retrospective estimates put <strong>the</strong> proporti<strong>on</strong> of Chinese<br />

in Phuket, before <strong>the</strong> arrival of <strong>the</strong> Isan, as high as 70%<br />

of Chinese descent including 10% China-born. In <strong>the</strong><br />

late 1950s, about two-fifths of miners were Hokkien<br />

speakers, while Thai participati<strong>on</strong> was increasing. [Skinner:<br />

1962 (1957), 351]<br />

Ref lecti<strong>on</strong>s <strong>on</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Human</strong> C<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>: Change, C<strong>on</strong>flict and Modernity<br />

The Work of <strong>the</strong> 2004/2005 API Fellows<br />

31

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