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Differing Responses to an Industrialising Economy - eTheses ...

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The couple of hosiers <strong>an</strong>d half dozen hatters, who appear in Alcester’s archives in<br />

Period D, may have made s<strong>to</strong>ckings <strong>an</strong>d hats of various types, but probably also retailed<br />

items made elsewhere. 114<br />

Records from the 1820s <strong>to</strong> 1851 reveal the m<strong>an</strong>ufacture of<br />

straw hats or bonnets. The employers include males <strong>an</strong>d females whereas the employees<br />

were mainly female, maybe working at home. 115<br />

Of the twenty-four women who advertised in the <strong>to</strong>wn in 1792, ten were milliners<br />

or m<strong>an</strong>tua-makers. Though missing from m<strong>an</strong>y of the sources consulted, women had<br />

run businesses making <strong>an</strong>d repairing clothing in earlier times <strong>to</strong>o. The seamstress<br />

Elizabeth Harper <strong>an</strong>d the m<strong>an</strong>tua-maker H<strong>an</strong>nah Ashmead <strong>to</strong>ok on female apprentices in<br />

1723 <strong>an</strong>d 1779 respectively. 116<br />

Milliners were scarce in local villages, so Alcester’s milliners (mainly female)<br />

must have served the ladies of the hinterl<strong>an</strong>d. 117<br />

M<strong>an</strong>y milliners also doubled as<br />

dressmakers, who, along with seamstresses, are fairly numerous in the 1841 <strong>an</strong>d 1851<br />

censuses. The household of Mary Whissell, milliner, in 1841, included two other<br />

milliners <strong>an</strong>d four apprentices. However, milliners’ businesses in 1835 were not so<br />

numerous as in 1792 <strong>an</strong>d the term ‘m<strong>an</strong>tua-maker’, in evidence from 1779, becomes<br />

redund<strong>an</strong>t after 1830. 118<br />

With the advent of censuses <strong>an</strong>d direc<strong>to</strong>ries the import<strong>an</strong>t role of women in the<br />

textile <strong>an</strong>d clothing trade, only fortui<strong>to</strong>usly glimpsed in earlier records, becomes more<br />

114 For example James <strong>an</strong>d Joyce Whittingham, hosiers, were also haberdashers <strong>an</strong>d shopkeepers.<br />

115 One firm of straw-hat m<strong>an</strong>ufacturers was run by two women from Aylesbury.<br />

116 TNA, IR1/48 <strong>an</strong>d IR1/61.<br />

117 The only inst<strong>an</strong>ce of a male milliner is John Potts, who takes on a female apprentice in 1778. (TNA,<br />

IR1/60, apprentice records). Female milliners appear in records from 1774.<br />

118 There were 10 m<strong>an</strong>tua-makers or milliners in 1792 <strong>an</strong>d only 3 milliners in 1835.<br />

96

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