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lue itineraries land, can boast of so much beauty on 70 km of cycling paths, with plans to increase that to almost a thousand, half of which in protected areas, or in other words, as far from fumes as are those that have been created up till now. The longest route – around thirty kilometers – is along the eastern Riviera on the Via dell’Oro Nero, the Way of Black Gold, which in Liguria is slate, that valuable stone which serves for everything here from blackboards to roofing to works of art. The way begins in Lavagna to end in Gattorna, partially on its own path, partially on secondary roads, all immersed in nature, to then turn towards the mountains letting the cyclist discover landscapes that he has never seen before. Called the Ciclovia dell’ardesia, it is also for pedestrians, as it crosses villages and offers places to eat. The shortest cycling path instead is named after Fabrizio de Andrè, in Arenzano it is a good place to have children begin as it is perfectly flat, short, and offers beautiful landscape that is “reassuring”. Well worth your while. Also full of fascination is the newest cycle path, which goes from Framura to Levanto, the door onto the Cinque Terre, on a former railway line under the mountains, alternating tunnels with open tracts that are extremely picturesque as they jut over the sea, crossing on basaltic rocks. It is fairly short, like the coastal park in the Piani d’Invrea, which goes until Varazze. Both of these have places where you can rent bicycles. What makes the latter route famous is its landscape of tiny beaches which are easily reached under the massive Mount Beigua. raggiungere Taggia da Arma. 22 km, tra poco 24, con una peculiarità interessante: è trafficata anche in settimana dai pendolari salutisti - oppure amanti della bellezza - che vanno al lavoro in bici. E questo, in Liguria, era impensabile. Nolo bici e ristoro in tre punti della pista: San Lorenzo, Arma di Taggia e Sanremo. Paesaggio mutevole: gallerie, che hanno un fascino tutto loro, angoli selvaggi, centri storici e, a Sanremo, qualche parco di ville favolose, come quella di Nobel che, pentito per aver inventato la dinamite ma senza esagerare, aveva costruito un moletto sul retro, cioè sulla pista, per fare gli esperimenti con le torpedini. Pedalando nelle piste ciclabili di Liguria: tra Varazze e Arenzano, a Levanto e (qua sopra) in Val Fontanabuona, dove il 27 maggio si corre sulla Ciclovia dell'ardesia (info su www.cicloviadellardesia.it) Cycling the cycle paths of Liguria: between Varazze and Arenzano, in Levanto, and (above) in Val Fontanabuona, where on May 27 they race on the Path of Slate, Ciclovia dell'ardesia (info on www.cicloviadellardesia.it But the pearl of Ligurian cycling paths is the one that runs from San Lorenzo al Mare to Sanremo. Readers of Blue are already familiar with it, but some new features have been added. It has almost reached Ospedaletti, and next year, work should begin to extend it eastwards to Finale. There is already a branch which heads into the hills, the first of many, and lets you reach Taggia from Arma. 22 km, soon to be 24, with another interesting aspect: even during the week you see physically-fit commuters – or lovers of beauty – who go to work by bicycle. And this, in Liguria, was once unthinkable. Cycle rentals and eating places are located in three points along the path: San Lorenzo, Arma di Taggia, and Sanremo. The landscape is constantly changing: tunnels, which have their own fascination, tracts of wilderness, old town centers and, in Sanremo, some parks of fabulous villas, like the one that belonged to Nobel who, feeling remorse for having invented dynamite, built a little pier at the back of his villa, on the cycling path, to carry out experiments with torpedoes. 108
itinerari blue Camogli, bella e buona as Good as Gold La focaccia calda e il pesce fresco pescato nell’antica Tonnara, i gioielli fatti coi sassi della spiaggia e le immersioni nell’Area Marina Protetta, ora popolata da cernie, coralli e pesci di ogni tipo. L’antico borgo offre gastronomia tradizionale, artigianato di qualità, shopping e moderni hotel e ristoranti The focaccia is hot, and the fish is fresh, just fished off the old Tuna fishery. Shiny pebbles like jewels on the beaches. Dive into the Protected Marine Area, filled with fish and corals. The ancient fisherman’s village of Camogli offers traditional gastronomy, quality handicrafts, shopping and modern hotels and restaurants Silvia Neonato Si diceva un tempo dei grandi capitani: è un uomo che sa uscire da ogni mare. E i grandi capitani «erano tutti di Camogli», scrive Giorgio Ficara nel suo bellissimo Riviera. Li descrive poi con maestria: «Portavano i loro brigantini a palo carichi di peach pine o caffè o zolfo o sale ai quattro angoli del mondo. Erano a casa ovunque, ad Haiti o alla Vuelta e Rocha di Buenos Aires o all’East Indian Dock di Londra. Entravano nei banchi di nebbia in silenzio, immobili sul ponte, entravano nei tifoni im- Once they would say about great sea captains, “This is a man who can get out of any sea.” And the great sea captains “were all from Camogli”, writes Giorgio Ficara in his beautiful book, “Riviera”. He describes them masterfully, “They would take their brigantines filled with pitch pine or coffee, sulfur or salt, to the four corners of the world. They felt at home everywhere, from Haiti or Vuelta and Rocha in Buenos Aires to the East Indian Dock of London. They would enter banks of fog in brogliando velacci, randa e maestra (…). Nelle bonacce entravano con pazienza». Oggi a Camogli c’è ancora l’istituto Nautico che prepara i capitani e i pescatori sono tuttora impegnati nell’antica tonnara, la Tonnarella per via delle sue piccole dimensioni, una delle cinque rimaste in Italia, attiva da aprile a ottobre. Sono loro a tessere a mano, ogni anno, la rete fatta con il cocco indiano. Così troverete, nei ristoranti del borgo, il pesce fresco che si vede arrivare in porto ogni giorno di silence, immobile on the bridge. They would enter typhoons contorting the mainsails … and enter the doldrums with patience.” Today in Camogli the Nautical Institute still teaches future captains. And fishermen still run the old tuna fishery, called the “Tonnarella” for its small dimensions, one of only five still left in Italy, active from April to October. 109
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