The Journal of the Siam Society Vol. LXIV, Part 1-2, 1976 - Khamkoo

272 REVIEW ARTICLES
We were shown the three huge protective earth walls which
in centuries past had been erected to fortify the palace. In fact,
the village where the palace had stood was called Brahwere, derived,
the headman thought, from Brahwang, which is a Thai word for
palace. We were shown the huge sloping pond which was said to
have been the site of ancient Siva ceremonies, but no proof of this
could be given.
Then plunging off the main track, our Malay hosts slashed
a path towards a concealed granite pillar. It lay broken and
entirely covered by a dense thicket of undergrowth. There were
sockets in the pillar through whjch probably wooden horizontals
would have been inserted. This was part of a temple, we were
told, known as Wat Udeng. Another not far distant had been
known as Wat Lubok. Both had pillars of granite and were believed
to be ancient, but the local people had broken off chunks of granite
and used them for grinding tools. Some examples of carving had
been preserved by the monks, but this pillar in the undergrowth
had been too heavy to move.
Finally, we drove to a field rich in rambutans, low trees
groaning with ripe, red fruit, the finest I have seen. uThese
come from Kedah," I was told, "They are a special variety."
"There is a route, then, to Kedah through the jungle?"
I asked.
"Oh, yes," replied the headman, "It's a very old route,
indeed. It usually takes us about three days."
With a smile the headman stood up, his task of clearing earth
beneath the rambutans completed.
"Look, the base of a Sivalingam !" be said.
A huge square block of granite was revealed. Incised into
the centre was a square depression into which could be fitted a
vertical Sivalingam or phallus. On one side of the square was
groove known as the •ooma" or vagina. These two in juxtaposition
were traditionally symbolic of the creation of mankind.
To see these solid stone survivals at our feet was immensely
satisfying after weeks of groping within the insubstantial world
of ancient music and cultural sound. But here, undoubtedly, was