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The Journal of the Siam Society Vol. LXIV, Part 1-2, 1976 - Khamkoo

The Journal of the Siam Society Vol. LXIV, Part 1-2, 1976 - Khamkoo

The Journal of the Siam Society Vol. LXIV, Part 1-2, 1976 - Khamkoo

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276 HEVJEW AHTJCLES<br />

"Che Yang (Malay guide) wasted no time. She agreed<br />

to come with us to our first objective.- <strong>the</strong> Naga-haunted mountain<br />

<strong>of</strong> Gunong Cheni. Cheni is a jungle ridge some forty miles up <strong>the</strong><br />

Pahang River on <strong>the</strong> east coast <strong>of</strong> Malaya. Until recently, it was<br />

inaccessible and remote, but at <strong>the</strong> time <strong>of</strong> writing a road is being<br />

cut through jungle towards <strong>the</strong> Pahang River at a point directly<br />

opposite <strong>the</strong> lake which lies at <strong>the</strong> foot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mountain. <strong>The</strong> name<br />

'Cheni' which is given to both lake and mountain is a Thai word<br />

meaning 'gibbon'. (pp. 34-5)<br />

"As we set <strong>of</strong>f once more in our peralw towards <strong>the</strong> far end<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Jake my thoughts went back to many <strong>the</strong>ories which bad been<br />

advanced across <strong>the</strong> years that a city bad once existed beneath <strong>the</strong><br />

lake. I had first come upon a reference to it as far back as 1955<br />

in Dr. Linehan's History <strong>of</strong> Pahang. "It is possible," he wrote, "that<br />

<strong>the</strong> lake did not always exist in its present form and that it covers<br />

<strong>the</strong> site <strong>of</strong> an ancient town." He gave his reasons which made sense<br />

in terms <strong>of</strong> a strategic focus for transpeninsular waterways and<br />

river routes to sources <strong>of</strong> gold and tin. An article he published<br />

in 1928 described his visit to <strong>the</strong> lake and his discovery <strong>of</strong> a huge<br />

artificial mound to <strong>the</strong> south <strong>of</strong> it 'en route' to <strong>the</strong> River Jeram.<br />

This mound captured my imagination. Across an interval <strong>of</strong> forty<br />

years, Linehan himself never went back to excavate <strong>the</strong> moun~ and<br />

no one else had since been <strong>the</strong>re to find it. My own attempt with<br />

a friend in 1956 to discover <strong>the</strong> mound was a failure. However, <strong>the</strong><br />

effect <strong>of</strong> subsequent broadcasts and my account <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> expedition<br />

in a book created widespread interest in Lake Cheni throughout<br />

Malaya, causing many adventurers, expeditions and, more recently,<br />

tourists, to visit <strong>the</strong> lake.<br />

"One visitor claimed to have seen a monster with eyes 'like<br />

tennis balls <strong>of</strong> fire'. To ano<strong>the</strong>r, J. McHugh, who made several<br />

visits to <strong>the</strong> lake in search <strong>of</strong> pottery, a Semelai headman had<br />

declared that Nenek, or 'grandfa<strong>the</strong>r' as <strong>the</strong>y affectionately called<br />

<strong>the</strong> Naga, was not, in fact, a python. Indeed, <strong>the</strong>re were two<br />

kinds <strong>of</strong> Naga. I quote from McHugh:<br />

'One has a head with two bumps on it and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r has a<br />

smaller head like a fowl.' <strong>The</strong> headman went on to describe its<br />

track in <strong>the</strong> mud, about ten inches in width, and even <strong>the</strong> noise it<br />

made, He pointed out where it was thought to live. <strong>The</strong> place is

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