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"<br />

78 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

he finds the patient suddenly draw back. The truth<br />

being that Kopekjian Effendi, who is an energetic<br />

young fellow pushing his way, has found means to<br />

suggest lower terms, and the bait has taken.<br />

Into a haunt of this kind with its waiting doctors,<br />

came zaptiehs and an English prisoner, and an Armenian<br />

who was taking part in the affair ; and the<br />

chemist, in the presence of all this company, was to<br />

demonstrate his knowledge of English. He was a<br />

short, fat, youngish man, with small black moustache<br />

and beady eyes ; he wore a long black stamhulina<br />

frock-coat, black trousers, and red slippers, and was<br />

anxious to do his best.<br />

The stately phrasing of the British passport must<br />

have given rise to many such scenes as followed here.<br />

Difficulty began with the opening words. In the<br />

chemist's opinion, " We, Sir Edward Grey," certainly<br />

referred to the bearer of the passport.<br />

" No ? Sir Edward Grey, he is who ?<br />

" The English Grand Vizier," I explained impressively,<br />

"PeM^," said the chemist, taken aback and finding<br />

refuge in the Turkish "very well." But he felt the<br />

ice thin under him, and would have no more to do<br />

with reading aloud and explanations. He wrestled<br />

with the document, slowly and in silence, and read<br />

it from beginning to end, finger on line, with a frown<br />

of concentration. In the end he decided that I was<br />

a person to go before the higher authorities ; meanwhile<br />

coffee and cigarettes were brought in, for there<br />

was no lack of politeness. After an hour spent thus,<br />

it was decided that the Governor might be seen<br />

instead of the Chief of Police, and we went to the<br />

Konak.<br />

We found the Governor seated in his room of<br />

audience. He gave immediate attention to the<br />

matter ; for whatever the defects of Turkish rule<br />

may be, difficulty of access to rulers is not one of<br />

them. Whether poor or rich, you may push aside the<br />

padded curtain which serves the audience-room for

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