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184 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT over the plain to Kaisariyeh, a huddle of flat roofs and minarets six miles away. Beyond it the eye travels on to Yilanli Dagh and other enclosing hills, and traces the road, the one great artery connecting the Cappadocian capital with seaports on the Mediterranean, with the Bagdad Railway, Konia, Constantinople, and the world. During late afternoon this road smokes with the dust of arrivinof traffic : with arahas, riders, waggons, and caravans. They first come into sight round the brown end of Yilanli Dagh, and thence may be watched till they reach the city's western edge. From Talas, one may notice, too, something of the domestic habits of Kaisariyeh. On still mornings and evenings a blue haze gathers among the minarets and gradually deepens into hanging blue smoke. It comes from a closely built, compact city of 60,000 souls, who, at morning and evening, light their mangals, or braziers of charcoal, and place them on flat roofs or in the street before bringing them indoors,—that being the careful native custom. All natives know that a freshly-lighted mangal is capable of killing every soul in a closed room, and are careful therefore in the use of these fires. Incidentally it may be remarked that they think this knowledge peculiar to the country, and not shared by foreigners. Call for a mangal at a khan, and it is placed outside the door, with explicit instructions to let it remain there until it has burnt to a clear glow ; you may notice also that from time to time a careful Man-keeper or his man will come and make sure that you have not been impatient, and that all is still well with you. To these sophisticated people of the East a European seems much the simpleton in many matters. Dwellers in Talas see no more of Argaeus from their homes than if that mountain did not exist, although the summit is not fifteen miles away ; for Ali Dagh intervenes, a hump of mountain like a vast pit-head heap, and rises three thousand feet above the town.
A Glen in Talas.
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! 00 ' ' . ^ %ss Asia Minof P-^"^"*
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Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORO
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Digitized by the Internet Archive i
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'' " ' Across Asia Minor on t(Jom W
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; PREFACE. The journey described in
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PREFACE vii likely enemy agent. And
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— — 1 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. A Bl
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— — CONTENTS xi CHAPTER XIII. A
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— A CONTENTS xiii CHAPTEE XXVI. T
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ILLUSTRATIONS. WESTERN PRECIPICES,
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ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT. CHAPTER
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— — THE AUSTRIAN CAPTAIN'S VIEW
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SCENES OF CENTURIES AGO 5 the Ten T
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SEABOARD OF ASIA MINOR 7 you never
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m SAMStJN ROADS 9 had seen upon it
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; SAMStJN 11 most valuable tobacco
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OUTBREAK OF CHOLERA 13 Baffra and S
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CHANGED PLANS 15 It had been my int
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AN UNEXPECTED COMPANION 17 bumping
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1^^ |Sjife^ ML. PIt i ^^^u£i.- - ^
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20 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT althou
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22 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT welcom
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24 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT For br
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A 26 CHAPTER III. and its Tipping a
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; 28 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT The
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— A WEIRD BEGGAR 29 As we rose ou
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— KHAVSA 31 fitted stones, one su
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ABSENCE OF WOMEN 33 white shawls as
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DIFFICULTIES WITH CAMELS 35 the nor
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VINEYAEDS AND WALNUT GROVES 37 as m
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vStreet in Marsovan. In the Mission
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— 40 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT st
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; 42 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT door
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—; 44 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT p
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— 46 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT th
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48 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of cre
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50 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT hardly
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52 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT brough
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54 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT duties
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— 56 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a
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58 CHAPTER VI. Marsovan Mission Hos
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; 60 ACROSS ASIA MINOK ON FOOT buil
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; 62 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT doct
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— 64 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT la
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—! 65 CHAPTER VII. On Marsovan pl
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— BULGARIAN MOHADJIS 67 seemed to
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; A SINGULAR RAVINE 69 Europeans wh
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PICTUEESQUE AJVIASIA 71 width not f
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>
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! 74 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Had
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— 76 CHAPTER VIII. Arrested in Am
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" 78 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT he f
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; 80 ACROSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT him
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- 82 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT thes
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84 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT So I f
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86 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT people
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LAND OF THE AMAZONS 87 and white go
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5
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90 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT contai
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! 92 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Mong
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94 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT were a
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96 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT evenin
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—; 98 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT I
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100 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT thoug
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102 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT for i
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104 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to As
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106 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT About
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108 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT an ey
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110 CHAPTER XL Tokat—Dagger-weari
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112 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT trave
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114 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT whole
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116 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of Ar
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—; ACHMET AND THE SENTRY 117 last
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COMMERCIAL KHANS OF TOKAT 119 Here
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AN ARMENIAN PASTOR 121 It colours e
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; ON THE SOUTHWARD ROAD 123 ment of
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TOBACCO SMUGGLING 125 contrabandist
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A DANGEROUS PATHWAY 127 his judgmen
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MUSICAL BULLOCK-CARTS 129 beauty. N
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— 131 CHAPTER XIII. An unexpected
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KUMOURS OF MASSACRE 133 shutting of
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TURKISH TROOPS ON CHAMLI BEL 135 na
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PROMPT REPRESSIVE MEASURES 137 in h
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BELIEF IN THE EVIL EYE 139 these pe
Page 181 and 182: THE CORVEE IN OPERATION 141 corvee,
Page 183 and 184: 143 CHAPTER XIV. Entering Sivas—A
Page 185 and 186: SIVAS—ARMENIAN MIGRATION 145 Turk
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Page 226 and 227: my soul!— cried Mehmet, jumping 1
Page 228: — — I 182 CHAPTEK XVII. In Tala
Page 235 and 236: ; ALI DAGH AND ARGAEUS 185 Cross a
Page 237 and 238: AN ARMENIAN MONASTERY 187 Rain was
Page 239: A Greek ot Talas. «f^ •• ^^t
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Page 247 and 248: SEEING KAISARIYEH 193 cure in the w
Page 249 and 250: TURKISH MILITARY OFFICERS 195 than
Page 251 and 252: THE CASTLE AND ITS DUNGEONS 197 the
Page 255 and 256: THE SITE OF MAXACA 199 to the site
Page 257 and 258: felt, BUYING IN THE BAZAARS 201 was
Page 259 and 260: A JEW-HATEE 203 the same hidden inf
Page 261 and 262: ; INDISPENSABLE LUGGAGE 205 square,
Page 263 and 264: ; TIRED TRAVELLERS 207 The hours st
Page 265 and 266: A BARBER'S SHOP RECEIVES US 209 the
Page 267 and 268: THE DRUMMER OF INJESU 211 A cup of
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Page 271 and 272: A MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT 215 I could
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Page 277 and 278: INTEODUCTION TO CAVE LIFE 219 arche
Page 279 and 280: ; ROCK-HEWN HOUSES 221 mysterious f
Page 281 and 282: DOOR OF A STRONGHOLD 223 stone had
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A PLEASANT MORNING 225 for I had he
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2> o
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228 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT apart
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230 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT which
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232 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT count
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234 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT taine
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236 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT —tw
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NAR: A PLEASANT VILLAGE 237 paths a
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Orta Hissar Rock and \'ilIaoe.
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240 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ourse
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242 CHAPTER XXII. Return to Injesu
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— 244 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT o
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246 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the o
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248 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT his f
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— 250 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT t
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— 252 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT d
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a; 254 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT on
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— 256 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT l
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258 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT outsi
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; 260 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT All
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262 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT The s
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264 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Sever
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— 266 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT i
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; AT YELATIN KHAN' 267 as wild and
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FUNDUKLI KHAN 269 ingly broken wood
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THE BAGDAD RAILWAY 271 mere goat-tr
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i 't o i .:*. :^ ,-.. 'wm
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274 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Engli
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276 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT most
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THE WIXE-SHOP AT TOSAN ALI 277 skil
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— 279 CHAPTER XXV. Ulu Kishla—
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— "GERMAN CASTLES" 281 long stops
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HOTEL DE LA GARE AT KONIA 283 and m
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! EETURN TO ULU KISHLA 285 than oth
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287 CHAPTER XXVI. Turkish officers
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INDIGNANT TURKISH OFFICERS 289 how
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TURKISH OFFICERS AND MEN 291 which
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LOULON CASTLE 293 Gates, fifty mile
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"SPOKTMEN" ARRIVE 295 with beard tu
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A DROLL TURKISH CARTER 297 While th
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; A CIRCASSIAN DICK TURPIN 299 In t
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A SINGING TURKISH BAKER 301 finds a
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ARKIVE AT DUBEKJI KHAN 303 ment cur
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Turks at Duulnji is./', :3i. Shephe
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306 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and n
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308 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT had s
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— ; 310 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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312 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT many
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314 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT old g
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— 316 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT c
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A 318 CHAPTER XXVIII. Return to the
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; THE GATE OF HOLY WAR 319 short st
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— A SACRED TREE 321 flutter of ra
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; A QUARKEL WITH KNIVES 323 gesticu
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IN THE MYRTLE SCRUB 325 We left thi
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a CONSCRIPTS ON THE ROAD 327 by ole
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RAIN-SQUALLS AND MUD 329 him, and w
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— 331 CHAPTER XXIX. An old Tarsus
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ST PAUL'S AMERICAN COLLEGE 333 voic
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a OLD TAKSUS—THE CYDNtJS 335 rich
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OLD WAYS OF TRAVELLING 337 terranea
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MERSINA 339 but the tall Swiss lady
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— THE CILICIAN PLAIN 341 land and
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s?CW Cotton Caits, CilicKm l^la '"'
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344 CHAPTER XXX. Adana— On a flat
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ON A FLAT EOOF 345 of Ala Dagh and
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ARMENIANS OF CILICIA 347 benefit th
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MAJOR DOUGHTY-WYLIE 349 and coupled
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THE GREAT ADANA MASSACRE 351 ported
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— KILLING AN ARMENIAN PASTOR 353
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— I PAY OFF IGHSAN 355 well why t
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BEITISH CONSUL GOES WITH ME 357 As
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The Consul, Ibrahim, and Mustaph: H
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" — 360 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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; 362 ACROSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT Aft
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; 364 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT lay
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aCKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ^icism ov
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368 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the f
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370 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT hours
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372 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT for m
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374 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a hot
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376 CHAPTER XXXII. Still at Baghche
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— 378 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT o
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380 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT horse
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— 382 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT t
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384 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT now w
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386 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to de
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388 CHAPTER XXXIII. Marash—Fanati
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390 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Armen
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392 ACROSS ASTA MINOR ON FOOT Ameri
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394 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT defia
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ACCIDEXT TO MUSTAPHA 395 plain, and
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GorPL- on load to Zt-itun.
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398 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT siUTO
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— ZEITCN town and scenes 399 bung
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"^*y^. A view in Zeitim. "The Brido
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402 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT venti
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— 404 CHAPTER XXXIV. Marash eastw
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406 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of th
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— 408 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT I
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Ff:EDING CAMELS 409 wonld do credit
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; SYRIAN SCENES 411 the zaptiehs so
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A QUAKREL AT THE KHAN 413 after rea
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; EOAD INTO ALEPPO 415 like that of
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INDIVIDUALITY OF ALEPPO 417 stone-b
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A \ iew ot Alt'ppo Mehmet, the'Zapt
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—; 420 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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; 422 ACROSS ASIA MINOE ON FOOT wit
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; 424 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT tur
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— — 426 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FO
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: 428 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Car
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430 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT perma
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— 432 CHAPTER XXXYI. A strange Ar
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434 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT while
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436 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT tachi
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A LONG-REMEMBERED PICTURE 437 As th
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VILLAGE OF KIRK KHAN 439 to the poi
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441 CHAPTER XXXVII. Morning in Beil
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; BEILAN PASS AND VILLAGE 443 the d
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— SCENES FAMOUS IN HISTORY 445 Ci
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THE ROAD TO ALEXANDRETTA 447 thence
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TOWN OF ALEXANDRETTA 449 Nor was th
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— ALEXANDER DRUMMOND 451 such dem
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ALEXANDRETTA AS A GERMAN PORT 453 t
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BATTLEFIELD OF ISSUS 455 standstill
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A BRITISH OPPORTUNITY 457 highway r
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— ON A BRITISH STEAMER 459 other
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