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12 ACROSS ASIA MINOK ON FOOT<br />

and beasts, of cook-shops and tobacco and garlic and<br />

the sea, combine in the narrow streets into a smell<br />

that micrht g'o up to heaven. In this way arrive<br />

wheat and barley and flour, boxes of eggs for Trieste<br />

and Marseilles, bales of mohair, wool, and tobacco,<br />

crates of live poultry for Constantinople, and walnuts<br />

by the ton.<br />

The conveyance of imports does not make the same<br />

display ; one might, indeed, spend a month in SamsAn<br />

and never see it. It goes on in the same way,<br />

however, but for the journey inland all get off early.<br />

The waggons and groaning carts, the asses and camels<br />

hung with bells, all file away in the darkness of<br />

early dawn, and are high on the mountain-side when<br />

the day begins for Samstin. They carry bundles<br />

of shovels, and iron rods and bars and pipe ; and<br />

boxes of sewing-machines, and bales of cloth and<br />

Manchester yarn, and countless tins of paraffin. One<br />

may even see roofing-tiles from Marseilles, and steel<br />

girders, and lengths of cast-iron water mains, being<br />

dragged slowly inland across the mountains on bullockcarts.<br />

In addition to being a busy port, Samstin is also<br />

a tobacco town like few. A strip of seaward slopes<br />

and valleys and deltaic plain hereabouts, sixty or<br />

seventy miles in length altogether, contains the<br />

famous tobacco lands of Baffra and Samstin, equalled<br />

in value only by those of Kavalla on the ^Egean.<br />

Some delicate combination of sun and soil and moist<br />

sea air gives Samstin tobacco—which is regarded as<br />

even finer than that of Baflra—a quality and character<br />

not found outside a narrow favoured district.<br />

Attempts have been made to produce this tobacco<br />

in other places— in America for one, even to the<br />

length of sending over quantities of Samsiin soil in<br />

which to start the plants,—but leaf, possessing the<br />

original nature, has never been obtained away from<br />

these few hundred square miles of Anatolian coast.<br />

And so this choice tobacco has become the district's<br />

chief product ; and the annual value of the

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