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274 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT English and proffered whisky, calling it "Whisky of the ' Policeman Brand,' " and got down a bottle for my inspection. It was a brand wholly unknown to me, a name curiously ominous for whisky, and I did no more than look with awe at the bottle and its blue policeman and wonder how the name came to be given. But after a little I conjectured that it must be German whisky, masquerading in the simple Orient as the healthful and prospering liquor of that famous force which upholds British law. We came away with loaves of bread, cheese, tins of sardines and Bologna sausage, and my canteen flask filled with wine. We ate as we walked, travelling now with great contentment. Chancing to look back, I saw Ighsan with his face almost buried in a loaf of good yellow wheaten bread, at which he was tearing with his teeth, and now and then breathlessly ejaculating, " Sweet ! sweet " ! We were more in want of food than we had supposed, Ighsan especially, although as a native he might have been expected to make better shift on yoicvhah. By all the theories of vegetarians this wholemeal pancake should have been adequate food in itself With no ill-will, however, 1 wish that such a dietetist could have demonstrated his theory daily beside us all the way from Develi Kara Hissar—for it was there we saw the last of bread in the form of loaves. He should have had as much youvhah and water as he called for, and as much milk and eggs and cheese as he could find. And if at the end he were not faint, not drawn in face, not short - tempered, and not ravenous for other food and drink, the correctness of his theories would have been established as never before. It must have been about noon when we left Ak Keupru and turned westward along the famous gorge. For the rest of the day we followed the ancient road between cliffs and crags and lofty mountains, with the railway and the brawling Chakia keeping us company in the narrow space. The road was excellent—a long scarcely perceptible ascent towards the interior except
— THE CILICIAN PASS 275 at Chifte guard-house, where it took to the mountainside and cHmbed steeply by zigzags for five or six hundred feet from one level stretch to another. Many caravans and waggons were coming from the west, and now^ and then an araha rattling down the gentle incline. The road went in sunlight and shadow round the spurs with a white film of dust from traffic always above it in the distance. Here and there the higher mountain-peaks showed snow, which lay in wreaths along the shelves of precipices ; but grey rock and crag and steep brown slopes, treeless save for scattered pines and a Lebanon cedar or two, were the main characteristics of the gorge. As afternoon wore on and the sun became low and the air frosty, peaks and snow were coloured in pink and blue and purple, or faded to a ghostly white. Sunshine and shadow lay side by side upon the heights, and the pines grew black. On this winter evening the Cilician Pass had its own distinctive character ; but more than anything else it seemed to retain a consciousness of its past. One may well believe that no highway in the world is so old or so crowded with historic memories as that which goes through the Cilician Pass. Since the earliest days of history it has been the easiest and most direct land route between Constantinople and the south-east, and, in a wider sense, between East and West. North of this pass the Taurus and Ala Dagh combine to bar any such passage until the foot of Argaeus is reached. In the south-west, indeed, are two other passes across the barrier of Taurus—Dumbelik, west of Mersina, and Jambozlu, above Selefke but neither has the directness and easy approaches and gradients of the Cilician Pass. So it came about that this has been the one chief way between east and west and north and south for these regions of Asia Minor. Doubtless it was used before the dawn of history Hittites, for one, must have sent their armies through it—and since then has known the armies of nearly every race and Power which has appeared in this, the
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! 00 ' ' . ^ %ss Asia Minof P-^"^"*
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Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORO
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Digitized by the Internet Archive i
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'' " ' Across Asia Minor on t(Jom W
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; PREFACE. The journey described in
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PREFACE vii likely enemy agent. And
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— — 1 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. A Bl
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— — CONTENTS xi CHAPTER XIII. A
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— A CONTENTS xiii CHAPTEE XXVI. T
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ILLUSTRATIONS. WESTERN PRECIPICES,
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ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT. CHAPTER
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— — THE AUSTRIAN CAPTAIN'S VIEW
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SCENES OF CENTURIES AGO 5 the Ten T
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SEABOARD OF ASIA MINOR 7 you never
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m SAMStJN ROADS 9 had seen upon it
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; SAMStJN 11 most valuable tobacco
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OUTBREAK OF CHOLERA 13 Baffra and S
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CHANGED PLANS 15 It had been my int
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AN UNEXPECTED COMPANION 17 bumping
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1^^ |Sjife^ ML. PIt i ^^^u£i.- - ^
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20 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT althou
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22 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT welcom
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24 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT For br
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A 26 CHAPTER III. and its Tipping a
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; 28 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT The
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— A WEIRD BEGGAR 29 As we rose ou
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— KHAVSA 31 fitted stones, one su
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ABSENCE OF WOMEN 33 white shawls as
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DIFFICULTIES WITH CAMELS 35 the nor
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VINEYAEDS AND WALNUT GROVES 37 as m
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vStreet in Marsovan. In the Mission
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— 40 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT st
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; 42 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT door
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—; 44 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT p
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— 46 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT th
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48 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of cre
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50 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT hardly
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52 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT brough
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54 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT duties
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— 56 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a
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58 CHAPTER VI. Marsovan Mission Hos
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; 60 ACROSS ASIA MINOK ON FOOT buil
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; 62 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT doct
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— 64 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT la
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—! 65 CHAPTER VII. On Marsovan pl
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— BULGARIAN MOHADJIS 67 seemed to
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; A SINGULAR RAVINE 69 Europeans wh
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PICTUEESQUE AJVIASIA 71 width not f
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>
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! 74 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Had
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— 76 CHAPTER VIII. Arrested in Am
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" 78 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT he f
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; 80 ACROSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT him
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- 82 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT thes
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84 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT So I f
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86 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT people
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LAND OF THE AMAZONS 87 and white go
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5
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90 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT contai
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! 92 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Mong
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94 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT were a
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96 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT evenin
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—; 98 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT I
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100 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT thoug
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102 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT for i
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104 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to As
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106 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT About
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108 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT an ey
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110 CHAPTER XL Tokat—Dagger-weari
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112 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT trave
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114 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT whole
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116 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of Ar
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—; ACHMET AND THE SENTRY 117 last
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COMMERCIAL KHANS OF TOKAT 119 Here
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AN ARMENIAN PASTOR 121 It colours e
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; ON THE SOUTHWARD ROAD 123 ment of
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TOBACCO SMUGGLING 125 contrabandist
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A DANGEROUS PATHWAY 127 his judgmen
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MUSICAL BULLOCK-CARTS 129 beauty. N
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— 131 CHAPTER XIII. An unexpected
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KUMOURS OF MASSACRE 133 shutting of
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TURKISH TROOPS ON CHAMLI BEL 135 na
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PROMPT REPRESSIVE MEASURES 137 in h
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BELIEF IN THE EVIL EYE 139 these pe
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THE CORVEE IN OPERATION 141 corvee,
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143 CHAPTER XIV. Entering Sivas—A
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SIVAS—ARMENIAN MIGRATION 145 Turk
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1 H| . ' JF^ J ;^ ^^^^-. ^5iAi Ruin
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148 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT enoug
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; 150 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT her
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152 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT could
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: 154 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT has
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156 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the s
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158 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to be
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— 160 CHAPTER XV. Selecting anoth
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162 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and t
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164 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ties
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166 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a sen
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168 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT salut
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170 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and s
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172 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of ti
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— 174 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT f
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176 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT mitte
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: 178 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Asi
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my soul!— cried Mehmet, jumping 1
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— — I 182 CHAPTEK XVII. In Tala
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184 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT over
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; ALI DAGH AND ARGAEUS 185 Cross a
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AN ARMENIAN MONASTERY 187 Rain was
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A Greek ot Talas. «f^ •• ^^t
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I'JO ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT was
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192 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT stand
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SEEING KAISARIYEH 193 cure in the w
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TURKISH MILITARY OFFICERS 195 than
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THE CASTLE AND ITS DUNGEONS 197 the
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THE SITE OF MAXACA 199 to the site
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felt, BUYING IN THE BAZAARS 201 was
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A JEW-HATEE 203 the same hidden inf
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; INDISPENSABLE LUGGAGE 205 square,
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; TIRED TRAVELLERS 207 The hours st
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A BARBER'S SHOP RECEIVES US 209 the
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THE DRUMMER OF INJESU 211 A cup of
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— 213 CHAPTER XX. I leave lajesii
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A MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT 215 I could
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A LAND OF TKOGLODYTES 21'7 himself,
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INTEODUCTION TO CAVE LIFE 219 arche
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; ROCK-HEWN HOUSES 221 mysterious f
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DOOR OF A STRONGHOLD 223 stone had
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A PLEASANT MORNING 225 for I had he
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2> o
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228 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT apart
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230 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT which
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Page 310 and 311: 242 CHAPTER XXII. Return to Injesu
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Page 337 and 338: ; AT YELATIN KHAN' 267 as wild and
Page 339 and 340: FUNDUKLI KHAN 269 ingly broken wood
Page 341 and 342: THE BAGDAD RAILWAY 271 mere goat-tr
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Page 351 and 352: THE WIXE-SHOP AT TOSAN ALI 277 skil
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Page 355 and 356: — "GERMAN CASTLES" 281 long stops
Page 357 and 358: HOTEL DE LA GARE AT KONIA 283 and m
Page 359 and 360: ! EETURN TO ULU KISHLA 285 than oth
Page 361 and 362: 287 CHAPTER XXVI. Turkish officers
Page 363 and 364: INDIGNANT TURKISH OFFICERS 289 how
Page 365 and 366: TURKISH OFFICERS AND MEN 291 which
Page 367 and 368: LOULON CASTLE 293 Gates, fifty mile
Page 369 and 370: "SPOKTMEN" ARRIVE 295 with beard tu
Page 371 and 372: A DROLL TURKISH CARTER 297 While th
Page 373 and 374: ; A CIRCASSIAN DICK TURPIN 299 In t
Page 375 and 376: A SINGING TURKISH BAKER 301 finds a
Page 377 and 378: ARKIVE AT DUBEKJI KHAN 303 ment cur
Page 379: Turks at Duulnji is./', :3i. Shephe
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Page 394 and 395: A 318 CHAPTER XXVIII. Return to the
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; THE GATE OF HOLY WAR 319 short st
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— A SACRED TREE 321 flutter of ra
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; A QUARKEL WITH KNIVES 323 gesticu
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IN THE MYRTLE SCRUB 325 We left thi
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a CONSCRIPTS ON THE ROAD 327 by ole
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RAIN-SQUALLS AND MUD 329 him, and w
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— 331 CHAPTER XXIX. An old Tarsus
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ST PAUL'S AMERICAN COLLEGE 333 voic
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a OLD TAKSUS—THE CYDNtJS 335 rich
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OLD WAYS OF TRAVELLING 337 terranea
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MERSINA 339 but the tall Swiss lady
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— THE CILICIAN PLAIN 341 land and
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s?CW Cotton Caits, CilicKm l^la '"'
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344 CHAPTER XXX. Adana— On a flat
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ON A FLAT EOOF 345 of Ala Dagh and
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ARMENIANS OF CILICIA 347 benefit th
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MAJOR DOUGHTY-WYLIE 349 and coupled
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THE GREAT ADANA MASSACRE 351 ported
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— KILLING AN ARMENIAN PASTOR 353
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— I PAY OFF IGHSAN 355 well why t
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BEITISH CONSUL GOES WITH ME 357 As
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The Consul, Ibrahim, and Mustaph: H
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" — 360 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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; 362 ACROSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT Aft
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; 364 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT lay
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aCKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ^icism ov
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368 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the f
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370 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT hours
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372 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT for m
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374 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a hot
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376 CHAPTER XXXII. Still at Baghche
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— 378 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT o
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380 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT horse
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— 382 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT t
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384 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT now w
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386 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to de
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388 CHAPTER XXXIII. Marash—Fanati
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390 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Armen
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392 ACROSS ASTA MINOR ON FOOT Ameri
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394 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT defia
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ACCIDEXT TO MUSTAPHA 395 plain, and
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GorPL- on load to Zt-itun.
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398 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT siUTO
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— ZEITCN town and scenes 399 bung
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"^*y^. A view in Zeitim. "The Brido
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402 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT venti
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— 404 CHAPTER XXXIV. Marash eastw
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406 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of th
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— 408 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT I
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Ff:EDING CAMELS 409 wonld do credit
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; SYRIAN SCENES 411 the zaptiehs so
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A QUAKREL AT THE KHAN 413 after rea
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; EOAD INTO ALEPPO 415 like that of
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INDIVIDUALITY OF ALEPPO 417 stone-b
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A \ iew ot Alt'ppo Mehmet, the'Zapt
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—; 420 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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; 422 ACROSS ASIA MINOE ON FOOT wit
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; 424 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT tur
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— — 426 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FO
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: 428 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Car
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430 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT perma
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— 432 CHAPTER XXXYI. A strange Ar
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434 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT while
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436 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT tachi
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A LONG-REMEMBERED PICTURE 437 As th
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VILLAGE OF KIRK KHAN 439 to the poi
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441 CHAPTER XXXVII. Morning in Beil
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; BEILAN PASS AND VILLAGE 443 the d
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— SCENES FAMOUS IN HISTORY 445 Ci
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THE ROAD TO ALEXANDRETTA 447 thence
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TOWN OF ALEXANDRETTA 449 Nor was th
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— ALEXANDER DRUMMOND 451 such dem
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ALEXANDRETTA AS A GERMAN PORT 453 t
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BATTLEFIELD OF ISSUS 455 standstill
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A BRITISH OPPORTUNITY 457 highway r
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— ON A BRITISH STEAMER 459 other
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