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—<br />

346 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

side of the town. There, however, it was thought the<br />

future could not well be provided for, so the Bagdad<br />

Railway station is placed among the vineyards nearly<br />

two miles away to the north, and the town is to be<br />

drawn thither. There they found all the space required,<br />

and have planned and built the station on a<br />

great scale, with a boulevard to connect town and<br />

station. Looking at the whole thing you are conscious<br />

of free expenditure, of great hopes by those<br />

who built, and a large idealism in conception.<br />

You may regard these developments if you like as<br />

due to the prescience of an altruistic railway company ;<br />

it is soon borne in upon you, however, that all this<br />

perfection and largeness of aim comes of the State<br />

though not the Ottoman State. You recognise that<br />

you are in the presence of something new—that here is<br />

the effort of a foreign State preparing for itself a new<br />

dominion in the territory of another State ; laying out<br />

capital and erecting great works with the sure knowledge<br />

of eventual great returns. You recognise, in fact,<br />

that here is a small part of an Imperial Speculation on<br />

the grandest scale. Seeing the Bagdad Railway and<br />

its developments in and about Adana, it seems the<br />

most natural thing imaginable to hear of Germans<br />

seeking sites throughout the district, buying land,<br />

and proposing to erect factories and mills. You see<br />

and hear these things and cannot withhold your<br />

admiration and respect, but also discover the stirrings<br />

of tribal instincts in yourself— for beneath all these<br />

visible and admirable activities you are conscious of<br />

hostility to your own country.<br />

In this matter of German ambitions and British<br />

policy, it came as a surprise to find that not a few<br />

Armenians of Adana followed the duel with interest.<br />

The Agadir incident and Algeciras conference and<br />

what underlay those movements they understood well<br />

enough. Going by train to Mersina one day I noticed<br />

an Armenian reading an English monthly. As he<br />

read he laughed, and presently laughed so much that<br />

other Armenian passengers became curious, for whose

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