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TURKISH MILITARY OFFICERS 195<br />

than Ighsan, but with infinite grace and courteBy.<br />

These courteous sheikhs might be the most bigoted<br />

and fanatical of zealots for aught I knew ; but seeing<br />

them in these circumstances they compelled my<br />

admiration. And if dignity, courtesy, and apparent<br />

kindliness of heart count for anything at all, 1 cannot<br />

imagine any one, who saw them as I did, being otherwise<br />

than favourably impressed.<br />

Quite different was the manner of Turkish military<br />

officers whom we chanced to meet ; in them other<br />

feelings were apparent. These men were always<br />

mounted — I never once met an officer afoot in<br />

Kaisariyeh— as if any other form of progression<br />

were beneath them. Their chief concern seemed to<br />

be the appearance they presented, but there was<br />

also another cause for their manner. The impotence<br />

of their country under Italian aggression in Tripoli<br />

had cut Turkish officers to the quick, each felt that<br />

his personal honour was affected, and with that became<br />

inordinately sensitive. They saw in every foreigner<br />

at least a silent critic who should be kept at arm'slength.<br />

Meanwhile, to make the best of things<br />

and impress the supposed critic favourably, they<br />

individually presented the best appearance at their<br />

command.<br />

Here, therefore, I grew familiar with the sight of<br />

Turkish officers stiffening in the saddle on seeing me,<br />

and throwing into posture and aspect whatever of<br />

hauteur and nonchalance they could combine with<br />

showy horsemanship. Their stallion mounts would be<br />

made to go restively, with tossing head and champing<br />

of bit, while the rider, sitting erect, swayed with easy<br />

grace, and was fiercely oblivious of the foreigner for<br />

whose benefit the display was made. Ighsan never<br />

took any notice of these fine horsemen. In khaki<br />

uniform and gold-laced khaki-coloured fez they stood<br />

for the new army, the new order of things, the Young<br />

Turks—in short, for European ideas as he understood<br />

them. Even at this early stage I gathered that he<br />

preferred the times of Abdul Hamid to anything the

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