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OUTBREAK OF CHOLERA 13<br />

Baffra and Samsiin crop now runs to millions sterling.<br />

At buyers' warehouses in the town peasant growers<br />

may receive gold for leaf across the counter at any<br />

time. The office of the combined British and American<br />

buyers alone often disburses, as one side of its<br />

immense purchases, £5000 a day in glittering yellow<br />

liras in this ready fashion ; there, also, the larger<br />

cultivators may draw advances in gold against their<br />

growing crops. To the infinite profit and satisfaction<br />

of peasant farmers, leaf and gold are almost as easily<br />

exchangeable as current coin.<br />

One never goes far in a Turkish town— or in any<br />

Turkish territory for the matter of that— without<br />

meeting evidence of the hopeless racial differences<br />

which beset the Ottoman Empire. So it happened<br />

to me here as I sat in a cafe a few hours after coming<br />

ashore.<br />

A boy came towards me carrying a collectingbox<br />

; he came smiling and diffident, yet with the<br />

manner of having a cause that well might bespeak<br />

support, and asked for a contribution in aid of the<br />

Hellenic navy.<br />

" No, monsieur," he added with Greek adroitness,<br />

finding me without hostility, " for the navy of all<br />

the Hellenic peoples."<br />

Samson cannot claim direct descent from old<br />

Greek Amisus, but its people are largely Ottoman<br />

Greeks, and much of the trade and wealth of the<br />

town is in their hands. And like all foreign Greeks,<br />

they look to Greece and contribute money in her<br />

aid, especially to her navy, with open-handed generosity,<br />

hoping dimly for the reconstitution of the Greek<br />

Empire with Constantinople for its capital. A year<br />

or so earlier they had subscribed £12,000 for the<br />

naval service, and now were preparing another<br />

contribution.<br />

During the earlier<br />

part of the summer cholera had<br />

visited Samson. It came with great suddenness ;<br />

with men dropping in the streets in agony as if shot,<br />

and not knowing at the time what had overtaken<br />

them. The epidemic grew in violence ; traffic ceased

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