acrossasiaminoro00chiluoft

114 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
whole process in his httle shop. You see him heat the
milk carefully, bring it to a gentle simmer, and then
pour it into bowls of various sizes according to the
demand in his trade. Next follows the critical operation.
As the milk cools he must hit upon the proper
temperature at which to impregnate it. He makes
use of a thermometer—his little finger to wit—and
this he inserts at the edge of each bowl, carefully
pushing back the cream, for he must study the look
of his goods. The right temperature reached, he
introduces a small spoonful of old yocfhourt, again at
the edge, taking care not to disturb the cream, and
gives it a deft stir or two. In completion, he drops
a few black seeds in the middle of the cream as
charm against the Evil Eye. When the basins are
cold they contain yoghourt ready for use ; a substance
without fluid, firmer than junket, and which, for
twelve hours, has scarcely any acidity. Of this sort
is Anatolian yoghourt, a food of nomad origin, which
a man is content to eat twice a day for a year and
ask no change.
Drink raw milk of the country and
you die with an approach to cei'tainty ; but experience
shows you may eat yoghourt anywhere and fear
no ill.
At previous khans I had found no difficulty in carrying
out my rule of doing all cooking and the like for
myself At this khan, however, I was conscious of a
certain inappropriateness in performing such domestic
labours. I knew that I was watched. I had to clothe
every operation with secrecy. I became jealously
concerned that my door should be closed ; that no
smell should escape my window when I was frying
bacon or making soup. With these precautions I did
well enough, but when it
came to getting rid of dirty
water the difficulty was greater. At other places
I had stepped gaily to the balcony, like other travellers,
and flung such refuse into the yard, conscious
of doing the right thing. But here, being looked
to for the English mode, I felt this primitive course
impossible, and summoned Achmet to my aid.
Where