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— 358 CHAPTER XXXI. Leaving Adana—At Missis Khan—Ruins of Mopsuestia—A caravanserai —Ibrahim in difficulties—The Oxford Book of English Verse—A wet day on the road— Yarzuat—Turkish dentist for the Consul Ibrahim as cook—Travelling in mud—Toprak Kale and Alexander the Great— Mustapha goes off— Benighted in the orchards of Osmanieh— The hotel at Osmanieh— On the road to Baghche The German official—Baghche tunnel. The Cilician spring is a season of rain and consequent deep mud upon unformed roads ; but we hoped for the best, and though wet days had preceded our setting out, no travellers could have desired a finer morning than that on which the journey began. In this perfect spring weather, a little before nine o'clock, we went down the narrow tortuous street leading from Adana hill to the bridge, knowing that an unfamiliar historical country vlay before us for our wanderings. Grown men we were, and on one lay the responsibility of representing the Empire in this district of fanatical disturbances; but now that majesty was laid aside, and if the truth be told, a youthful spirit of holiday adventuring was the fortunate possession of us both. We threaded our way among camels, and asses, and men of the east, between little shops and stalls over which sometimes hung the branches of date-palms ; and then crossing the ancient bridge with the yellow Sarus swirling under its arches, and the ruins of Haroun el Rash id's castle upon our right, passed out of Adana town into the wide unenclosed spaces of the Cilician plain, and took the road for Missis. Across
The Consul, Ibrahim, and Mustaph: His Excellency and Ibrahim Chowshe.
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! 00 ' ' . ^ %ss Asia Minof P-^"^"*
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Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORO
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Digitized by the Internet Archive i
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'' " ' Across Asia Minor on t(Jom W
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; PREFACE. The journey described in
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PREFACE vii likely enemy agent. And
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— — 1 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. A Bl
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— — CONTENTS xi CHAPTER XIII. A
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— A CONTENTS xiii CHAPTEE XXVI. T
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ILLUSTRATIONS. WESTERN PRECIPICES,
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ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT. CHAPTER
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— — THE AUSTRIAN CAPTAIN'S VIEW
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SCENES OF CENTURIES AGO 5 the Ten T
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SEABOARD OF ASIA MINOR 7 you never
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m SAMStJN ROADS 9 had seen upon it
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; SAMStJN 11 most valuable tobacco
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OUTBREAK OF CHOLERA 13 Baffra and S
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CHANGED PLANS 15 It had been my int
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AN UNEXPECTED COMPANION 17 bumping
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1^^ |Sjife^ ML. PIt i ^^^u£i.- - ^
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20 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT althou
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22 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT welcom
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24 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT For br
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A 26 CHAPTER III. and its Tipping a
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; 28 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT The
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— A WEIRD BEGGAR 29 As we rose ou
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— KHAVSA 31 fitted stones, one su
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ABSENCE OF WOMEN 33 white shawls as
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DIFFICULTIES WITH CAMELS 35 the nor
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VINEYAEDS AND WALNUT GROVES 37 as m
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vStreet in Marsovan. In the Mission
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— 40 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT st
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; 42 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT door
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—; 44 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT p
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— 46 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT th
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48 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of cre
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50 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT hardly
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52 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT brough
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54 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT duties
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— 56 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a
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58 CHAPTER VI. Marsovan Mission Hos
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; 60 ACROSS ASIA MINOK ON FOOT buil
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; 62 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT doct
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— 64 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT la
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—! 65 CHAPTER VII. On Marsovan pl
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— BULGARIAN MOHADJIS 67 seemed to
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; A SINGULAR RAVINE 69 Europeans wh
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PICTUEESQUE AJVIASIA 71 width not f
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>
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! 74 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Had
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— 76 CHAPTER VIII. Arrested in Am
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" 78 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT he f
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; 80 ACROSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT him
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- 82 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT thes
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84 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT So I f
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86 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT people
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LAND OF THE AMAZONS 87 and white go
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5
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90 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT contai
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! 92 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Mong
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94 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT were a
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96 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT evenin
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—; 98 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT I
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100 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT thoug
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102 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT for i
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104 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to As
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106 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT About
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108 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT an ey
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110 CHAPTER XL Tokat—Dagger-weari
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112 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT trave
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114 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT whole
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116 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of Ar
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—; ACHMET AND THE SENTRY 117 last
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COMMERCIAL KHANS OF TOKAT 119 Here
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AN ARMENIAN PASTOR 121 It colours e
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; ON THE SOUTHWARD ROAD 123 ment of
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TOBACCO SMUGGLING 125 contrabandist
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A DANGEROUS PATHWAY 127 his judgmen
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MUSICAL BULLOCK-CARTS 129 beauty. N
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— 131 CHAPTER XIII. An unexpected
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KUMOURS OF MASSACRE 133 shutting of
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TURKISH TROOPS ON CHAMLI BEL 135 na
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PROMPT REPRESSIVE MEASURES 137 in h
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BELIEF IN THE EVIL EYE 139 these pe
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THE CORVEE IN OPERATION 141 corvee,
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143 CHAPTER XIV. Entering Sivas—A
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SIVAS—ARMENIAN MIGRATION 145 Turk
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1 H| . ' JF^ J ;^ ^^^^-. ^5iAi Ruin
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148 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT enoug
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; 150 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT her
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152 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT could
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: 154 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT has
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156 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the s
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158 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to be
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— 160 CHAPTER XV. Selecting anoth
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162 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and t
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164 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ties
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166 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a sen
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168 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT salut
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170 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and s
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172 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of ti
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— 174 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT f
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176 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT mitte
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: 178 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Asi
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my soul!— cried Mehmet, jumping 1
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— — I 182 CHAPTEK XVII. In Tala
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184 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT over
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; ALI DAGH AND ARGAEUS 185 Cross a
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AN ARMENIAN MONASTERY 187 Rain was
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A Greek ot Talas. «f^ •• ^^t
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I'JO ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT was
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192 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT stand
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SEEING KAISARIYEH 193 cure in the w
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TURKISH MILITARY OFFICERS 195 than
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THE CASTLE AND ITS DUNGEONS 197 the
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THE SITE OF MAXACA 199 to the site
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felt, BUYING IN THE BAZAARS 201 was
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A JEW-HATEE 203 the same hidden inf
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; INDISPENSABLE LUGGAGE 205 square,
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; TIRED TRAVELLERS 207 The hours st
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A BARBER'S SHOP RECEIVES US 209 the
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THE DRUMMER OF INJESU 211 A cup of
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— 213 CHAPTER XX. I leave lajesii
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A MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT 215 I could
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A LAND OF TKOGLODYTES 21'7 himself,
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INTEODUCTION TO CAVE LIFE 219 arche
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; ROCK-HEWN HOUSES 221 mysterious f
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DOOR OF A STRONGHOLD 223 stone had
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A PLEASANT MORNING 225 for I had he
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2> o
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228 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT apart
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230 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT which
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232 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT count
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234 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT taine
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236 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT —tw
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NAR: A PLEASANT VILLAGE 237 paths a
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Orta Hissar Rock and \'ilIaoe.
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240 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ourse
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242 CHAPTER XXII. Return to Injesu
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— 244 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT o
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246 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the o
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248 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT his f
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— 250 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT t
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— 252 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT d
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a; 254 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT on
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— 256 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT l
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258 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT outsi
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; 260 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT All
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262 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT The s
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264 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Sever
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— 266 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT i
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; AT YELATIN KHAN' 267 as wild and
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FUNDUKLI KHAN 269 ingly broken wood
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THE BAGDAD RAILWAY 271 mere goat-tr
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i 't o i .:*. :^ ,-.. 'wm
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274 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Engli
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276 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT most
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THE WIXE-SHOP AT TOSAN ALI 277 skil
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— 279 CHAPTER XXV. Ulu Kishla—
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— "GERMAN CASTLES" 281 long stops
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HOTEL DE LA GARE AT KONIA 283 and m
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! EETURN TO ULU KISHLA 285 than oth
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287 CHAPTER XXVI. Turkish officers
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INDIGNANT TURKISH OFFICERS 289 how
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TURKISH OFFICERS AND MEN 291 which
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LOULON CASTLE 293 Gates, fifty mile
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"SPOKTMEN" ARRIVE 295 with beard tu
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A DROLL TURKISH CARTER 297 While th
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; A CIRCASSIAN DICK TURPIN 299 In t
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A SINGING TURKISH BAKER 301 finds a
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ARKIVE AT DUBEKJI KHAN 303 ment cur
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Turks at Duulnji is./', :3i. Shephe
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306 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and n
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308 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT had s
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— ; 310 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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312 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT many
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314 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT old g
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Page 394 and 395: A 318 CHAPTER XXVIII. Return to the
Page 397 and 398: ; THE GATE OF HOLY WAR 319 short st
Page 399 and 400: — A SACRED TREE 321 flutter of ra
Page 401 and 402: ; A QUARKEL WITH KNIVES 323 gesticu
Page 403 and 404: IN THE MYRTLE SCRUB 325 We left thi
Page 405 and 406: a CONSCRIPTS ON THE ROAD 327 by ole
Page 407 and 408: RAIN-SQUALLS AND MUD 329 him, and w
Page 409 and 410: — 331 CHAPTER XXIX. An old Tarsus
Page 411 and 412: ST PAUL'S AMERICAN COLLEGE 333 voic
Page 415 and 416: a OLD TAKSUS—THE CYDNtJS 335 rich
Page 417 and 418: OLD WAYS OF TRAVELLING 337 terranea
Page 419 and 420: MERSINA 339 but the tall Swiss lady
Page 421 and 422: — THE CILICIAN PLAIN 341 land and
Page 423: s?CW Cotton Caits, CilicKm l^la '"'
Page 426 and 427: 344 CHAPTER XXX. Adana— On a flat
Page 429 and 430: ON A FLAT EOOF 345 of Ala Dagh and
Page 431 and 432: ARMENIANS OF CILICIA 347 benefit th
Page 433 and 434: MAJOR DOUGHTY-WYLIE 349 and coupled
Page 435 and 436: THE GREAT ADANA MASSACRE 351 ported
Page 437 and 438: — KILLING AN ARMENIAN PASTOR 353
Page 439 and 440: — I PAY OFF IGHSAN 355 well why t
Page 441: BEITISH CONSUL GOES WITH ME 357 As
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Page 448 and 449: ; 362 ACROSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT Aft
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Page 452 and 453: aCKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ^icism ov
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Page 456 and 457: 370 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT hours
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Page 462 and 463: 376 CHAPTER XXXII. Still at Baghche
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Page 466 and 467: 380 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT horse
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Page 470 and 471: 384 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT now w
Page 472 and 473: 386 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to de
Page 474 and 475: 388 CHAPTER XXXIII. Marash—Fanati
Page 476 and 477: 390 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Armen
Page 478 and 479: 392 ACROSS ASTA MINOR ON FOOT Ameri
Page 480 and 481: 394 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT defia
Page 483 and 484: ACCIDEXT TO MUSTAPHA 395 plain, and
Page 485: GorPL- on load to Zt-itun.
Page 488 and 489: 398 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT siUTO
Page 491 and 492: — ZEITCN town and scenes 399 bung
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"^*y^. A view in Zeitim. "The Brido
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402 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT venti
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— 404 CHAPTER XXXIV. Marash eastw
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406 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of th
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— 408 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT I
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Ff:EDING CAMELS 409 wonld do credit
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; SYRIAN SCENES 411 the zaptiehs so
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A QUAKREL AT THE KHAN 413 after rea
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; EOAD INTO ALEPPO 415 like that of
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INDIVIDUALITY OF ALEPPO 417 stone-b
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A \ iew ot Alt'ppo Mehmet, the'Zapt
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—; 420 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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; 422 ACROSS ASIA MINOE ON FOOT wit
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; 424 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT tur
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— — 426 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FO
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: 428 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Car
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430 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT perma
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— 432 CHAPTER XXXYI. A strange Ar
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434 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT while
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436 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT tachi
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A LONG-REMEMBERED PICTURE 437 As th
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VILLAGE OF KIRK KHAN 439 to the poi
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441 CHAPTER XXXVII. Morning in Beil
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; BEILAN PASS AND VILLAGE 443 the d
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— SCENES FAMOUS IN HISTORY 445 Ci
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THE ROAD TO ALEXANDRETTA 447 thence
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TOWN OF ALEXANDRETTA 449 Nor was th
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— ALEXANDER DRUMMOND 451 such dem
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ALEXANDRETTA AS A GERMAN PORT 453 t
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BATTLEFIELD OF ISSUS 455 standstill
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A BRITISH OPPORTUNITY 457 highway r
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— ON A BRITISH STEAMER 459 other
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