acrossasiaminoro00chiluoft

194 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
pressure is applied to the Ottoman Empire men of
Kaisariyeh hold meetings and send fiery resolutions
to Constantinople. They are always ready also to
back their opinions with action ; many had recently
gone to fight against Italian infidels in Tripoli ; and
because access by sea was impossible had travelled to
Egypt, filtered across it in disguise, and so reached
their destination. The city also has the reputation
of looking ill-naturedly upon giaours. Here, more
than elsewhere, the visiting giaour runs risk of having
stones or other missiles flung at him. He may be
hustled in the street, or find that charcoal-laden asses
are driven over him more often than can be explained
by any theory of accidents. He is also sure to hear
the cry " Shapkali"—hatted man—intended for himself,
and may have the unpleasant experience of hearing
it taken up, as if some innate dislike of him were
general and many anxious to express it.
With Ighsan, however, I went not only unmolested
but welcomed. It was no vain boast of his that
he knew the city and its people well. In bazaar and
street, in mosque-yard and commercial khan, he was
ever giving and returning salutations as we passed.
Perhaps because a foreigner was in his charge these
exchanges were made with unusual exactness. There
was no slurring of the movements. Hand went to
feet and breast and forehead in turn, with the precision
of a military salute. Particularly was this so
when we met any of the higher priesthood. I never
tired of seeing these meetings, so much ceremony
was involved, so much of apparent motive and goodwill
on both sides, so much expressed in the various
motions. The white-robed sheikh would come briskly
along, seemingly expecting no greeting at all. But
with the halting of Ighsan, and his stoop to bring
hand to feet, the sheikh would prepare to acknowledge
the compliment by backing off a pace or two
with the air of one greatl}'^ surprised and gratified.
Having got into this position he went through the
salutation with somewhat greater speed of movement