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—<br />

249<br />

CHAPTEE XXIII.<br />

The caravan track to the Mediterranean—Heavy snow at last—The guestroom<br />

at Enighil—Eobbers before us—Circassians at Kavluk Tepe<br />

—A Turkish burying-ground—A place of memories for Ighsan<br />

Under Ala Dagh — The guest-house at Bayam Dere — A morning<br />

visitor challenged.<br />

There could be no doubt of the season when I turned<br />

out of the khan at Develi Kara Hissar to resume my<br />

southward road. The sky was overcast and threatening,<br />

the wind bitterly cold, and all the north was<br />

piled with masses of rounded leaden clouds, scarcely<br />

visible in the general obscurity except for a steely<br />

grey light about their edges. Snow, you would say,<br />

and much of it, was close at hand.<br />

I had cherished some hope of turning westward<br />

again from this place, and reaching another part of<br />

the cave-dwellers' country ; but the weather, and the<br />

touch of fever which had not yet altogether gone,<br />

dissuaded me from any new detour. Depression, also,<br />

was abroad this morning. Dust came flying in clouds<br />

down the village street, and with it a few scurrying<br />

flakes of snow. The forlorn country, the mud-built<br />

khan, across the way a dilapidated orchard wall of<br />

sun-dried bricks topped w^ith a thatching of dead<br />

twigs,—all made a picture from which the glamour<br />

of travel had disappeared. And yet I was about to<br />

enter the finest portion of the journey, the part<br />

to which I had looked forward with the greatest<br />

anticipation. By evening I should be in the long,<br />

narrow, mountain-enclosed valley which leads down

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