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acrossasiaminoro00chiluoft

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232 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

country. They are a Christianised race, possessing<br />

perhaps a strain of Greek blood, but more closely<br />

related to some ancient people from whom they<br />

have received distinctive features and characteristics.<br />

These cave - dwellers can never have been exterminated<br />

;<br />

they are unlikely to have ever suffered<br />

more than small losses. Consider v/hat a difficult,<br />

endless, laborious tas'k the hunting down of such a<br />

people would be. For one thing, no possibility of<br />

ever dealing them a great blow. One small nest<br />

of dwellings might be dug out with infinite labour;<br />

but by that time the inmates would have filtered<br />

away by underground passages to some other place<br />

of safety. Nor were they ever important and offensive<br />

enough to ensure a protracted effort for their<br />

destruction. Think of their present lairs, and the<br />

miles of ancient passages said to connect them, and<br />

you are convinced that these people are survivors of<br />

a race existing now^here else. You are convinced<br />

also that, if their burrows and old monasteries and<br />

chapels and tombs could be thoroughly explored,<br />

much valuable information would come to light.<br />

The lower part of Uch Hissar rock may be climbed<br />

with little effort, and provides a most remarkable view.<br />

From the edge of the village the cones go away into<br />

the distance beyond Matyan, checkering each other<br />

with shadows, and looking, with people moving among<br />

them, like the tents of a great army pitched among<br />

orchards in a valley of coloured cliffs. For wherever<br />

there is open space in the valley these careful cultivators<br />

have planted fruit trees.<br />

Following paths and byways under brilliant sunshine<br />

that in early afternoon was too warm for comfort,<br />

we went from Uch Hissar towards the town of<br />

Nevshehr. We journeyed over bare, gently undulating<br />

land, cut here and there by deep little ravines.<br />

Here and there, too, were orchards and vineyards,<br />

and naked areas of tufa in cool green, and yellow,<br />

and brown ; and in the distance were rocks. In the

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