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acrossasiaminoro00chiluoft

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—<br />

A SACRED TREE 321<br />

flutter of rags and heap of pious stones, and then<br />

one knew with certainty that he was not in Surrey.<br />

This bush, I think, was a hawthorn, and sacred<br />

beyond most, judging by the mj^riad snippets of<br />

coloured cloth tied to every twig and branch within<br />

reach and the waggon-loads of small stones piled<br />

around the trunk. These sacred trees and bushes<br />

are regarded as Moslem shrines. They are found<br />

wherever trees and bushes grow, are decorated always<br />

with rags and surrounded by an accumulation of stones.<br />

Though I inquired often, I never learnt definitely how<br />

they came by their dedication, how or by whom the<br />

first offerings were made, and whether, for instance,<br />

if I attached pieces of bright-coloured cloth to any<br />

roadside bush, and gathered a few hundred pebbles,<br />

other passers-by would follow my unknown lead.<br />

The best explanation I got was that these bushes<br />

mark the haunt of some dead holy man— in life a<br />

roadside beggar, thereafter a memory of sanctity<br />

at which, as at a shrine, offerings might produce<br />

lesser miracles, or at least be accounted as good<br />

works.<br />

When passing such bushes before, Ighsan had carelessly<br />

dropped a stone or two ; but now he put five<br />

to his credit, with a furtive air as if not caring to<br />

be seen doing so. This was a matter on which I<br />

could say nothing ; but when, as we went along,<br />

he continued for more than an hour to pick up loose<br />

stones and carefully throw them off the road, I was<br />

moved to ask why. His manner became awkward<br />

at once. He was upon some action directed by his<br />

religion, and I saw that my curiosity was ill-timed<br />

and ill-received.<br />

Yeni Klian was called a place where people came<br />

from the Cilician plain to take the mountain air,<br />

drink sweet mountain water, and escape the enervating<br />

heat of the coast. The khan provided food and<br />

bedding at need, though most visitors brought their<br />

own, and by comparison with other khans was indeed<br />

"a la Franga." It stood alone, a low stone-built<br />

X

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