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444 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

There was personal interest also in the view, because<br />

I could follow from this point the irregular<br />

course of my wanderings for three hundred miles.<br />

But there was more ; for here, before me, in a wide<br />

comprehensive view, to be grasped by eye and imagination,<br />

lay the commercial heart of the Bagdad Railway<br />

Scheme. Not of the present ostensible scheme perhaps,<br />

but of the ultimate plan, when the railway<br />

and all its feeder and other subsidiary lines should<br />

be completed, and the commerce of wide territories<br />

yet undeveloped should pass through a port in this<br />

gulf not yet constructed. Covert hostility to British<br />

interests lay behind the scheme in all its stages ;<br />

and knowing this the eye turned towards the southwest,<br />

hoping to see the dim island of Cyprus which<br />

covers the gulf and all this coast-line. Cyprus could<br />

not be seen because a great brown and green spur<br />

of Ahmar Dagh intervened. But though not visible<br />

hence, it certainly would show itself from the summit<br />

of that mountain ; and its existence as a British<br />

possession in just the right place, an unsurrendered<br />

Heligoland against developments to come, seemed so<br />

exactly suited to the need as to be like a provision<br />

of Providence.<br />

So much for matter of political interest : there are<br />

others, however, to be found up here, just below<br />

Beilan village, this clear spring day. On examining<br />

the scene in detail the eye follows first the narrow<br />

strip of coastal plain lying along the foot of Amanus<br />

and going north till it turns at the head of the gulf,<br />

twenty-five miles away. There the view is bounded<br />

by low blue hills curving towards the west. Beyond<br />

those hills, only three hours' walking from the coastline,<br />

thereabouts is the castle of Toprak Kale, and two<br />

miles inland from that point is the Bagdad Railway.<br />

Passing round the coast to the north-west the eye<br />

next comes to the little town of Ayas, against blue<br />

hills, above the harbour called Ayas Bay, and can<br />

see the white sails of vessels coming and going from<br />

the port. West of Ayas Bay the hills sink to the

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