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156 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

the smell of an old musty library, but everything was<br />

spotlessly clean, like the interior of most Armenian<br />

dwellings. The wood-work was unpainted ;<br />

the walls<br />

covered with plain hangings<br />

; a heavy padded leather<br />

curtain served as door ; and the room was warmed by<br />

a brazier, which was taken away on our entering. In<br />

some such style as this the monks had probably lived<br />

for centuries ; for though this part of the building<br />

may not have been more than two hundred years old,<br />

the monastery was founded in the thirteenth century,<br />

has had a continuous existence ever since, and customs<br />

are likely to have changed but slowly.<br />

The Bishop did not keep us waiting long, and seemed<br />

even glad of an opportunity for seeing visitors. As<br />

Bishop of a Church and people in difficulties, and a<br />

man said to have been placed in this office for his<br />

exceptional capacity, I looked at him with more than<br />

ordinary interest. His age appeared to be no more<br />

than fifty, though doubtless he was older ; his full<br />

beard and long hair were dark, his figure shortish and<br />

strong, and his face inclined to florid. He spoke in<br />

Armenian, and my American friend translated. An<br />

Armenian bishop in another part of the country had<br />

been said to have charged his people to sell their<br />

shirts if necessary in order to buy firearms. But the<br />

Bishop of Sivas was not of that sort ; discretion and<br />

patience seemed to be what he relied upon. He<br />

avowed himself on good terms with the Government,<br />

and satisfied with their present treatment and intentions.<br />

I gathered, however, that he not only had to<br />

guide his priesthood and flock, but also take part in a<br />

game of political euchre with the Turkish authorities<br />

and the Greek Church as his opponents, in which the<br />

higher cards never by any chance fell to him. It was<br />

not a game so important as that which the Armenian<br />

Patriarch at Constantinople has to play against Turks<br />

and Greeks, but had the same characteristics.<br />

Conversation ran on many topics, but without<br />

apparent efibrt the Bishop managed to get in various<br />

allusions to his race and Church. With a few in-

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